Showing posts with label via Francigena. Show all posts
Showing posts with label via Francigena. Show all posts

Sunday, June 19, 2016

amaWalkers Camino Foray into Italy

12 months of planning, thousands of hours pouring over blogs to choose the best possible routes and daily mileages; Google searching for accommodation for 42 people for 24 nights = over 1010 beds bookings. (Plus the usual Camino Frances groups' bookings in Spain in May and September) 
amaWalkers Camino will stay true to its original mandate of friendly, well organised, no-frills but great accommodation, group walks. 

In July 2015 Jenny and I  planned on taking a group of pilgrims to Rome in 2016.  Within a week of putting it out on Facebook and on our website, 56 people asked to go on the walk. So we made it 2 groups (we would each take one) then 3 (Marion would take a group) and finally a 4th group (was to be Kathy's group) to cater for 8 South African women who wanted to all walk in the same group. After the initial excitement of trying the new route, people change their minds due to financial constraints, not enough leave, unexpected family reunions.  Some cancelled, some postponed, others changed groups.  [The group of 8 women decided to go it alone, using our planned stages over the Alps and in Tuscany.  We wish them a happy Via Francigena.]

Hundreds of emails sent to hotels, pensions, agriturismos, apartments and osterias for single, double and twin rooms.  Many places don't have twin rooms and can't guarantee two beds so we have to change our search for alternative places.  Some don't reply - could be that they only open in the summer, like the Hotel Italia at the Gr San Bernard, which is closed for most of the year.  Relief when we finally get an acknowledgement of our reservations for 4 Gruppi on consecutive days.  We realise that it must be a headache for a small hotel to have to change linen and towels in 7 or 8 rooms day after day. 

Many Italian hotels are B and B, but what time is breakfast?  8:30 is too late for eager pellegrini hoping to avoid the worst of the mid-day sun by making an early start.  Will they prepare breakfast earlier for our groups, or provide a take-away picnic breakfast?  We have vegans and vegetarians, some don't eat red meat, others don't eat pork; some have allergies, to honey, nuts or seafood.  All has to be planned for and hotels alerted.

Some hotels want full payment upfront, sent via bank transfers.  We tell them that we need an invoice, SWIFT code, IBAN number, name and address of hotel.  (South Africa is paranoid about money laundering or sending money to overseas accounts).  Information received is often incomplete - wrong SWIFT code and insufficient numbers in the IBAN number.  It takes hours, sometimes days to send the money.

Booking.com is our best friend!  Safe, secure bookings which (for the most part) can be changed or cancelled within days of arrival.  Beware the non-refundable bookings.  They are not only non-fundable but in many instances cant be changed so you could be stuck with rooms you don't need.

We are walking in the Swiss and Italian Alps for four days.  How to get the 4 groups from Aosta to San Gimignano in northern Tuscany - 500km away - without involving them in multiple bus and train changes?  Hiring a private bus and driver for  €1295 for each group (€130 pp) might seem excessive but of you add up the bus and train ticket costs for 12 people there isn't much difference.  And, the journey is about 5 and a half hours instead of 8 - 9 hours on public transport.

What about arriving in Rome and visiting the Vatican?  Groups can be pre-registered here - www.im.va  - so that they don't have to join the long queues at the Vatican waiting to walk through the Holy Doors. Our Four Groups have all been registered to walk through the doors at specific time slots. 

Group one starts at La Douay on 23rd June:  Group Two on 24th June:  Group Three on 25th June. Group Four on 26 June.  We will arrive in Rome one day after each other and will each have two days in Rome. 

For the past three days I've been fighting a rotten cold - Mrs Potato head type cold and cough.  I leave on Tuesday afternoon and am hoping all the fluids, hot med-lemon, cough syrup and Corenza-C will clear it before then. 

Wednesday, June 15, 2016

2016 VIA FRANCIGENA

Yeehaa!  6 more sleeps and Jenny and I fly to Geneva.  Our other two group leaders follow a couple of days later. Four groups walking to Rome, starting in the Swiss Alps on consecutive days.  We will hike from La Douay to Bourg St Pierre, then to the Gr San Bernard Pass, Etroubles and Aosta.
From Aosta a hired bus will take us on a 6 hour bus ride to San Gimignano in Tuscany.  We will walk to Rome from there.

A couple of days after arriving in Rome, I will lead another, smaller group, from Viterbo on a Slow Walk to Rome (10km per day with a back-up vehicle).

In June 2006 when I walked the Via Francigena we walked long distances (over 30km per day) because there were no guide books in English and all ...we had were a few blogs and maps that, although very pretty, were mostly misleading! 

The hike from Martigny to La Douay was on a scary ledge, clinging onto chains bolted onto the rock face. The climb from La Douay to the Gr San Bernard was gruelling - 28 km in 11 hours.
This time we will start at La Douay and will take two days to the Col - 2473 m. We will send our small bags ahead, carrying only a day pack. Longest day will be a 24.2 km near Rome (hopefully we'll all be fit by then!) 

For years I said, "I don't think I'll ever do the VF again" but I am really looking forward to this slower, more gentle way of walking to Rome. After all, I'm 10 years older, am osteopenic and losing eyesight and don't have anything to prove anymore! 

 [Three of the five who walked in 2006 are leading groups to Rome]

Can't always rely on long-range forecasts but the weather doesn't look too bad next week when we will start walking from La Douay to Aosta.

Gr San Bernard pass snow report is for light falls above 2756m (200m above the Hospice) and rain below.


 No snow is predicted for lower altitudes. It is a relief to see only light winds predicted.
First picture is for Bourg St Pierre when our four groups are there on 24, 25, 26, 27 June.

Wednesday, December 09, 2015

EXPONENTIAL RISE IN NUMBER OF PILGRIMS ON THE CAMINO AND VIA FRANCIGENA

In 1986 (30 years ago) 2491 pilgrims received a Compostela. This has increased by over ten-fold.

Between 1996 and 2015 over 2.5 million pilgrims earned a Compostela.

1996 17138
1997 25179
1998 30126
1999 61418
2000 55004
2001 61418
2002 68952
2003 74614
2004 179944
2005 93924
2006 100377
2007 114026
2008 125141
2009 145877
2010 272135
2011 183366
2012 192488
2013 215880
2014 237812
2015 262000
2516819

The total number of pilgrims who have received a Compostela so far - January to November - is 260,396.

In December 2014 the number was 1870 so we can assume that at least that number will be reached by the end of the month. 262,266 for 2015.

With Pope Frances announcing an Extraordinary Roman Holy Year of Mercy in 2016 and appealing for cathedrals with Holy Doors to open them next year, I reckon that the numbers will go up exponentially. The Santiago Cathedral is opening their Holy Door on 16th December.

A previous pilgrim office Dean calculated that only 1 in 5 pilgrims walking the Camino routes during the year obtain a Compostela. Many Europeans walk a week at a time; some walk shorter routes that do not end in Santiago; others do not apply for the certificate. If that is still valid, there were over a million pilgrims walking the Camino routes this year and the numbers will rise in 2016.

The number of pilgrims walking to Rome is also expected to rise. There are now dozens of tour companies offering various distance walks on the Via Francigena and although we started booking accommodation for our groups a few months ago, many places are already full. The same can be expected on the Camino, especially the last 114km from Sarria.

Monday, October 03, 2011

YOUR CAMINO gets good reviews

YAY!!!  My book, "YOUR CAMINO on foot, bicycle or horseback in France and Spain" is getting good reviews on the forums and online book stores.

This review on Amazon.co.uk:

YOUR CAMINO - a Lightfoot Guide to Practical Preparation for a Pilgrimage (Paperback)
Preparing for a Camino and the thought of the challenge ahead can be a daunting task. This guide is akin to a reassuring, extremely informative and wise friend! Forget about trawling through every Camino book and website for the guidance you need - these experienced authors have done it all for you!
This is a vast accumulation of well researched knowledge all set out in a very logical format, offering sound advice in manageable chunks of text.

It covers the very basics (which you'll be surprised to find you may not have considered!) to the more in depth and complicated with handy highlighted tips and basic photographs where a visual reference is needed.
As if this isn't enough, further reading and useful websites for each topic dealt with are also detailed while the appendices elaborate on some important points such as post-Camino blues, Camino lingo and a training programme! Interesting historical detail and inspirational short stories from ex-pilgrims wet the appetite for adventure while the humorous cartoons remind you to keep a sense of humour during the serious job of planning.
I bought this book to satisfy my curiosity in the Camino de Santiago and my occasional ponderings on walking the route myself.
 I intended to dip in and out of it as I needed but ended up reading it from cover to cover! It tackles every practicality you could possibly think of, giving encouragement to every type of person, and is truly motivational, whether you have decided to walk a Camino yet or not. I wouldn't say this guide is only for first timers. It provides invaluable support for everyone.
Although the book focuses on routes to Santiago through France and Spain, it would serve equally
well as a guide to preparation for any other pilgrimage route.


And this one on a Camino Forum:
I've made time to read, and thoroughly enjoy, Sil's new book "YOUR CAMINO" and I can't imagine a more practically helpful publication for any pilgrim. Sil has covered virtually every eventuality and need of the pilgrimage, and her advice is rendered as though she were a kindly and wise mentor for anyone who ever planned to make the dream of the Camino become a personal, and permanent reality.

Monday, January 03, 2011

1999 - 2010 : REFLECTING ON 10 YEARS OF WALKING THE TALK


In 1994 I started walking for leisure and fitness.  In 1996 I did my first long walk, a two-day 90km charity walk on the famous Comrades Marathon route from Pietermaritzburg to Durban.  Things progressed from there and I was soon looking for other long walks to do but I never, in a million dreams, saw myself walking multi-day half marathons in different countries!
Its amazing how becoming a Camino pilgrim opened up a whole new world of trails and travel, traditions, history, folk-lore, art and architecture and other pilgrim friends and pilgrimages. I never imagined in 1999, when I was researching the possibility of walking from Leon to Santiago, that I would still be walking and talking el Camino 12 years later! Until then I'd never heard of 'The Camino' and was more interested in doing different marathons to long distance walks.
I did the London Marathon in 1998 with Clare and heard about the 'Coast to Coast' walk across England so in July 2001 I organised for a group of 10 local walkers to do the CtoC from St Bees to Robin Hood's Bay.  That was my first experience of walking with a group.
As things turned out, I didn't get to walk the Camino until 2002. By then I'd read Shirley Maclaine's rather frustrating book 'The Camino' and Paolo Coelho's metaphorical (metaphysical?) account of his search for his sword in 'Pilgrimage' - neither of which I found very inspiring! I wanted the nitty-gritty bits about walking a camino - trail conditions, distances, accommodation etc, - not stories about previous lives or masters of the universe.
My first Camino was in May/June 2002 with two walking buddies who belonged to the same athletic club. Clare was a career woman and could only be away from her job for 30 days so I planned a 27 day walk, averaging 28km per day from Roncesvalles to Santiago.  We did it - every inch of the way - but even though we did it fairly comfortably (I had trained a year earlier to run the gruelling 90km, Comrades ultra-marathon and kept up the level of fitness after the marathon) it was a bit of a slog and there wasn't any time for detours or rest days.   We sometimes walked up to 40km and had a 'rest' day by walking a shorter distance the following day.
 In 2003 I joined the newly formed Confraternity of St James of South Africa and soon became the contact person for local pilgrims, arranging St James Feast Day celebrations at my home and annual practical pilgrim workshops.

In March 2003 I really walked-the-talk when I joined the Open Door Crisis Centre's 'Breaking Free' team of 16 people from Durban and walked from Durban to Cape Town (± 1800km) in relays for 2 weeks to raise awareness of abused women and children. There were four teams of four walkers and each team walked 15km in the morning and 15km in the evening or at night.
There was a team on the road every minute of the day and night. When we weren't walking, we drove the camper van or seconded the wealking team.  We only had 6 hours sleep a night but rarely managed to sleep that many hours. It was a long, hard walk with very little sleep but the purpose and the goal made it worthwhile.
In May/June 2004 I walked from Paris to Roncesvalles on the Via Turonensis with my friend Joy and then from Sarria to Santiago (so that she could earn a Compostela).
That was a groot trek! Long, flat days, lots of walking on roads and, until we reached the south of France and Spain, not much pilgrim type accommodation. 2004 was a Holy Year but only 40 pilgrims started in Paris that year.

In June/July of 2006 I arranged a walk on the Via Francigena from Lake Lausanne to Rome with Marion and Val, my Coast to Coast companions, and Kathy and Rayna from our Athletics Club.  Some
days were scary (like hanging on chains in the rock face whilst perched on a ledge above a precipice on the way to the Gr St Bernard Pass) and some days it reached 40°C - in the shade.   It was a very scenic walk and I'm pleased I've done it but I don't think I'll walk it again soon.

In August/September 2007 I organised another walk on the Camino Frances with Marion, and Anneliese a Dominican Nun from the Holy Trinity Church in Durban.  It was a new season for me and I loved that it was harvest time and not as crowded as in spring and summer.  Many places on the Camino had changed in the 5 years since I'd walked it, new cafe-bars and shops had opened, some albergues had closed and lots of new private hostels opened.  Finn met us in Sarria and walked the last section with us to Santiago thus earning his first Compostela. We hired a car in Santiago and spent a week after the walk driving back to Pamplona, staying over in Lugo, Oviedo, Castrojeriz, Roncesvalles and Pamplona.

In June/July of 2009 I oragnised  a walk with Marion and Val from Lourdes to Somport and on the Aragones route to Pamplona.  Val had to leave us in Pamplona and fly back home but Marion and I continued on to Lugo and el Ferrol where we started the Camino Ingles to Santiago.  Marion left me in Santiago and I walked on to Finisterre where I met with Bejo and spent two days at the Fistera albergue learning the ropes of registering and showing pilgrims around. 
From 1st July to 15th July I served with Isa, a young Basque woman from San Sebastian, at the San Roque albergue outside Corcubion as hospitalera for two weeks.  It was an amazing experience to be on the camino, but not as a pilgrim, and I loved serving the pilgrims from all over the world who stayed at our albergue.

March 2010: In March I was invited to spend a long weekend with Camino pilgrims Pam and Franklin Stern in Cape Town. We had corresponded via email and spoken on the phone but had never met. It was a wonderful weekend and whilst there, we discussed the possibility of taking people on the camino who did not want to walk alone or who needed someone to organise the walk for them. We decided that if we did this we would do it properly so that people could have the best possible experience of their Camino walk.
amaWalkers Camino was formed and a three week, 19 day "Best of Both" walk on the best three sections of the camino was planned.  12 people quickly signed up for the walk and Pam and I are now looking forward to walking the Camino with them from Roncesvalles to Logroño, a night each in Burgos and Leon, walking from Astorga to Villafranca del Bierzo and then from Sarria to Santiago.  We will top it off with night trip to Finisterre to watch the sunset over the Atlantic.  I can't wait!!

Friday, August 06, 2010

SANTIAGO TO ROME

Ever since a French pilgrim walked from Bordeaux to Jerusalem and back in 333AD, ordinary people with an extraordinary wanderlust have trekked long distances to sacred places.
The Anonymous Bordeaux Pilgrim

My good friend "Little John" is one of those extraordinary pilgrims who is planning on walking from Santiago to Rome next year. He has already done most of the Camino routes - Norte, Ingles, Frances, Primitivo, Via de la Plata, Madrid, Portugues etc and the Via Francigena from Canterbury to Rome and from Brindisi to Rome in the south.

John now wants a new challenge and has decided to walk the Jesus Trail from Nazareth next year and then fly to Santiago to walk to Rome. John will be 77 years-old in October and is walking the Annapurna Circuit in Tibet in November. Quite an inspiration!)

Why not walk from Rome to Santiago?
 The route to Rome isn't that well marked and John feels that it could be difficult to follow it in reverse. The Camino is so well marked that it shouldn't be too difficult to walk it the other way.

How long will it take?

It is about 2 800km from Santiago to Rome. John is a good steady walker and plans to cover about 25km per day. With a few shorter days and rest days it should take him about 4 months. He has a British passport so can take as long as he likes. Anyone needing a Schengen visa would have a problem with the 90-day maximum time allowed.  Its not impossible to walk it in 90 days. In the summer of 2009 Herman walked from Rome to Santiago in 78 days averaging more than 35km per day. You will find some info on his blog in English even though most of it is in Dutch. http://herecomesherman.wordpress.com/camino-roma-santiago-under-construction/

Live on the trail!


Babette Gallard and Paul Chin have been on the Arles to Rome trail on horseback since April with the idea of writing a guide book on the Santiago to Rome route and also to raise funds to build a classroom in a school in Burkina Fasso. You can contact them through their website Pilgrimage Publications: www.pilgrimagepublications.com/  

Dan and Hilary are walking from Rome to Santiago and then potentially back across Spain (different route) and up the west coast of France.
http://www.travelpod.com/s/hotel+pavia+rome+italy

Rome to Santiago
http://trollpilgrimage.blogspot.com/

OTHER PILGRIM TALES

http://zinaztli.blogspot.com/ Bike from Rome to Santiago

Ann Milner walked from Santiago to Rome in 2006
She started on 4th April in Santiago and arrived in Rome on 2nd September. http://www.w2r.fammaprojects.co.uk/p2006home.html
Her Route
Camino Frances to Puente la Reina
Camino Aragones to Somport.
A detour to Lourdes 
Via Toloana at Maubourguet all the way to Arles:
Via Domitia to Montgenevre
Via Aurelia heading south-east to Menton.
At Genoa she walked inland joining the Via Francigena at Pontremoli and then on to Rome from there.

 Assisi to Santiago

Starting from Assisi, north along the Via Francigena: From Sarzana along the Italian Riviera, crossing the border into France before following the Cote d’Azur and heading west , passing through Arles, Montpellier, Toulouse, Auch, and Pau. Then cross the Pyrenees into Spain along the Camino Aragonese to Puenta La Reina, onto the Camino Frances, and finishing at Santiago de Compostella
http://assisi2santiago.com/route.html

Resources:


Santiago to Puente la Reina:
You can follow any of the Camino Frances guides - CSJ, John Brierley, Pili Pala Press, or just follow the arrows.

Puenta la Reina to Somport:
You can follow the directions and arrows for the Aragones route to Somport - CSJ, Rother, Miam Miam Dodo - or follow the arrows.

Somport to Lourdes: 
From Somport to Oloron Ste Marie and Lourdes you can follow the Chemin du Piemont Pyrénéen.

Lourdes to Arles:
From Arles:
From Arles, there are two routes to choose from.
North east towards Montgenevre or South east to Menton.
Some websites suggest that the Montgenevre route is easier.

This website offers information and maps from Arles to Italy:

La Provence - Alpes - Côte d'Azur is the natural pathway, both for pilgrims coming from Italy or southern Europe towards Compostela, and those who sailed from Spain or France en route to Rome. Founded in 1998, the Association "Provence - Alpes - Cote d'Azur - Corsica" Friends of Pathways of St. Jacques de Compostela and Rome currently has over 600 members in seven departments of the region.
  • Help and advice to prospective pilgrims (information, documentation)
  •  Support for pilgrims crossing the region;
  • Creation and Maintenance, in association with the French Federation of hiking trails, routes between Arles and the Italian border;
  •  Looking for accommodation with the municipalities, parishes and individuals;
  • Studies and research on local heritage and history of pilgrimages;
  • Promotion of pilgrimage by organizing exhibitions
  • Maintain links with associations pursuing the same goal, in France and abroad, especially in Italy;
  • Maintenance of friendships between former and future pilgrims through periodical publications and events (meetings, visits, walks, lectures.
Somport Pass between Spain and France

Discover the way to Arles , Italy (Col du Montgenèvre Mortola or near Menton) to Spain over the Somport pass using maps and map the paths and their alternatives.  This site will inform you of routes and associations that can help you in your pilgrimage to Compostela and Rome .

This site has a description of the route from Montginevro Pass to Torino

Guide Books

Guida alla Via Francigena
A 900km walk from Montgenevre to St. Peter's, from the border with France to Rome, through Piedmont, Lombardy , Emilia Romagna, Tuscany and Lazio. 

La Via Francigena, Cartografia E GPS -
The first complete and detailed mapping of ViaFrancigena - over 900 km on foot, in 38 stages , retracing the journey from ancient Rome to Montgenevre . Step by step through Piedmont, Lombardy , Emilia Romagna, Tuscany and Lazio : the maps and all the data necessary to navigate.


USEFUL WEBSITES
For accommodation on the different routes




Once you get onto the Via Francigena at Pontremoli (or elsewhere) you can follow the
VF signs and guides - such as the Lightfoot Guides published by Babette and Paul.


Useful website for the Via Francigena

 http://www.pilgrimstorome.org.uk/  Check their extensive list of links to VF organsiations including the two main Italian Via Francigena organisations in Italy and the VF Forum on Yahoo.

http://www.francigena-international.org/

http://www.viafrancigena.eu/

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/via-francigena

And a few blogs:



Friday, December 01, 2006

2006: La Via Francigena - 700kms to Rome

www.vfpilgrims.blogspot.com

2006:
When Joy and I were in Santiago de Compostela in 2004 we visited the museum where I collected a few leaflets and brochures. I happened to pick up a map with the title: El Camino Francigeno. I presumed that it was one of the camino routes through Spain and it wasn't until I got home and opened it that I saw it was a map on the route of the pilgrimage trail to Rome through Italy. Well, of course I started to dream about it! I went onto the Association International Via Francigena website. The Via Francigena follows the route taken by Archbishop Sigeric in 990AD who wrote about his journey to Rome to collect his stole of office - the palium - when he was appointed archbishop. This document was found in the early 1990's and is now in the British Museum. Of course I started dreaming about walking to Rome and in September mentioned that I was thinking of organising a walk to Rome. A number of friends showed an interest and in the end five of us committed to walking the VF to Rome.
We joined the AIVF and I joined the VF Yahoo group. As none of us could afford the time (or the money) to walk from Canterbury to Rome, we asked pilgrims who had done the walk to recommend the best sections to walk in 30 days. We were told that the Swiss section was really beautiful; the Valle d'Aosta was stunning; the route across the north of Italy - from around Ivrea to Fidenza or Fornovo was flat, industrial with large espanses of rice paddies and could be missed. So we planned a 30 day pilgrimage starting on Lac Leman - walking to Ivrea - train to Parma. We decided to also skip a short section from Pontremoli to Lucca.

For a full account of our walk to Rome, you can visit: www.vfpilgrims.blogspot.com Suffice to say that we had the most WONDERFUL walk to Rome. The weather was amazing - almost too hot at times. The five of us got on exceptionally well and there never any quarrels or 'fish lips'.

The average age of the VF five was 55 years
We walked 684kms. With an average step length of 75cm that means they took over 912,000 steps on their way to Rome.
We walked for an average of 25km per day - 27 days and one day off.
The average cost of our 28 days accommodations was €21.50 – many included breakfast. (All accommodation was booked in advance).
Facts: We crossed two passes, the Grand St Bernard – 2473m and the Cisa Pass -1050m.
We started in Switzerland at Vevey on Lac Leman. In Italy we walked through the Valle D’Aosta, Piemont, Emilia-Romanga, Tuscany and Lazio.
Our longest day was 11 ½ hours and our longest distance was 36.3km.
We passed through over 210 villages and towns and crossed more than 150 rivers.
We crossed a variety of bridges, metal, wood, hanging, stone, Roman etc
The town with the lowest altitude was Lucca at 19m asl and the place with the highest altitude was the Gr St Bernard Pass at 2472m asl.
We climbed from 870m at La Douay to 2473m at the Gr St Bernard Pass in 25kms and 11 ½ hours.
On some days the temperatures reached +40oC.
We only had three days with some rain - walking through one violent thunderstorm.
We caught a train from Ivrea to Parma and a train from Pontremloi to Lucca.
Our backpacks weighed between 8kg and 10kg.
Dinner: We made their own dinner in 8 places: ate ‘in’ at 10 different places (hospice, convent, hotels etc) and went ‘out’ for dinner 10 times.
Bed: We stayed in a backpackers, a hospice, a campsite, a gité, a castle, on a farm, three youth hostels, nine B&B’s, two convents, six hotels (one a converted monastery) and two apartments. Mostly in 2 bed and 3 bed rooms.
Breakfast: 18 places provided breakfast – usually pre-packed long life bread, croissants, biscuits, melba toast and jam with tea or coffee. We bought yoghurt, fruit and cereal to share for breakfast.
We lost a variety of items on the route: water bottles, walking stick, cap, sunglasses, cloths, guidebook, air ticket.
Although we didn’t have an English guide book, at no time did we actually get lost – only confused a couple of times - usually when following the VF signs along the way.
We used a variety of resources to find our way:
Topofrancigena maps from www.francigena-international.org.
Itinerario a Piedi maps from the AVF -http://www.assoicazionefrancigena.com/ as well as the ‘Itinerary and Leggs’ from the same website. These were all in Italian and after being translated by Google and Babelfish, we were left with what we called their ‘Cryptic Clues’. (eg: “Salt towards the mouth of the dog” and “ask a circle” – meaning “ask around”.)

We are busy compiling a self-print coffee-table book comprising our daily blog posts, comments, resources and photographs. Val is compiling a Food Report chapter. It should be ready in 2007.