2014 Camino Caracoles - el Ferrol to Neda

We met in the cafeteria at 8am after leaving our luggage and paying for the accommodation. We were all sending extra baggage ahead and I had booked Jacotrans to transfer 5 bags each day.  Finn and I were supposed to share the pink suitcase, Marlene would have the khaki kit bag, Gail her suitcase, Bob a duffle bag and Penny a suitcase. They quoted me €5 per bag per day.

When Finn and I packed the pink bag (which Kathy and I had shared and was now half empty) Finn found that he couldn't get all his stuff into it. We decided that we should buy another bag for him but he would share the khaki bag with Marlene for one day.  I emailed Jacotrans to let them know that we would have an extra bag from Thursday and that I would put another €40 in an envelope for them. They replied that they wouldn't charge us extra for the 6th bag. So, we got one bag for free!

At breakfast I read some of the first day's stage from Johnnie Walker's notes. I asked each one why the were Caracoles. Penny - because she was very slow: Bob because he will be 90 years old in 3 month's time: Finn because he has peripheral neuropathy,  Gail because she has 'funny' feet, Marlene because of her childhood polio and me because I'm walking with my broken arm in a cast. What an odd group we are!
We were all a little nervous starting out and we took a photo of the first Camino sign we saw. Johnnie's signs and route descriptions were easy to follow. When we had gone about 5 km we stopped at a cafeteria for a drink and Mercedes, the waitress, was so delighted to see us she brought us free Madelena cake and little chocolates. Our first Camino angel.

There was a Chinese Bazaar across the road so Gail, Marlene and I went to look for a bag. Marlene ended up buying a new suitcase on wheels which she and Gail carried between them for a while. Then Gail took over caring for Penny by carring her pack and Finn carried the suitcase.
It took us almost 7 hours to walk to Neda and by the time we got there - about 11km - we were all hot, tired and ready to stop.
For about 2km you can see where you have come from and wish you had a boat to save you all that mileage!

The Hostal Maragoto is run by a friendly mother and daughter and the rooms are comfortable but ours was 51 steps up! After checking in and lugging the cases upstairs,  I went down to ask for the wifi password.  Back up again we did some washing then went down to ask about dinner. Back up again and so it went on. Straight after dinner I was prone on the bed!

Last Day! SANTIAGO!! ULTRIA Y SUSEYA!

After breakfast we met at the Monte de Gozo reception and started walking. It had been drizzling so everything was wet. After walking for about 45 minutes I called Luis and asked him to fetch the Irish lady.
We stopped at the little café-bar opposite the Porta do Camino to wait for her but she called to say that with the rain coming down she was waiting for us under the arches in the Cervantes square.
Bob went marching into the town on his own. "Every time I've walked into Santiago I have managed to get lost". He told me yesterday.  I just hoped he didn't get lost this morning.

The others walked through the Porta (the old gateway) and we walked together into the old city.  We found the Irish lady waiting for us and 6 of us walked to the cathedral.  When we arrived at the side door of the cathedral, I suggested to Reinette that she take Janet and Pat to the square to see the front of the cathedral.  I sent a message to Johnny Walker, letting him know that we had arrived. He said that he would be with us in 2 minutes.
Just then Bob arrived, 'I managed to get lost again!" He said.  Bob had missed the arrows and shells in the pavements and had walked away from the cathedral. Reinette, Janet and Pat came back and then Johnny Walker arrived. He told us that he had reserved a bench for us in the front row and that the group's name "Camino Caracoles 2013" would be called out before the mass.
We had time to check into the hotel and leave our backpacks with our other luggage which had already been delivered.  Then we all went back to the cathedral which was absolutely packed. Johnny was there to guide us through the crowd and we took our places in the front row.  The botafumeiro was hanging above the altar so we knew that it would swing after the mass. I don't think I've ever seen the cathedral so crowded and the security personal had to constantly move people who were sitting in the aisles, blocking the passages.  There were groups of young children sitting on the floor in front of the benches. The army were sitting in the enclosed area where Reinette and I had sat two weeks earlier with the Pilgrim Office 'Amigos!'

We felt like VIPs sitting in the front row.  A young man read out the names of the countries pilgrims had arrived from the previous day.  He then read out the names of some of the groups that had arrived - including Los Caracoles 2013!  We felt so proud of our little group

 
 

 

The mass lasted about an hour and then Johnny lead us outside, through the gift shop so that we wouldn't have to negotiate the front stairs.  We followed him to the Pilgrim's Office and we were led through the waiting queue to an office downstairs. 
Johnny had arranged for the Compostela certificates to be prepared and one by one, the walkers sat at the desk and answered the questions required to earn the certificate.  It was quite an emotional moment for Pat who had asked for her late brother's name to be included on the document - and for the Irish lady who accepted a memorial Compostela in her late husband's name.
Bob proudly displayed his completely full credencial.
After a group photograph, we all went to the Casino for a celebratory lunch. 

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Day 15: Arca to Monte de Gozo

The same taxi man who brought us back yesterday picked up the group and took them back to Casa de Comida where they started walking to Monte de Gozo.  There were black clouds sweeping across bringing rain every half hour.
The taxi then came back for Irish lady and me.  He dropped us off just past the RTVGE centre on the way to Monte de Gozo and we started walking. Every now and then someone would want to take her photograph.  We stopped for a coffee at the last café bar and then walked the last few m to San Marcos chapel.  We took shelter inside when it started raining again.

When the rain stopped we walked through the complex to the reception which is about 500m from the entrance at the top.  There were army vehicles and tents on the field behind San Marcus. We heard that they had marched from Tui in Portugal to Santiago in less than 24 hours breaking a previous record.
Once we were settled in the rooms I walked back to the top to see the two statues of pilgrims pointing the way to the cathedral.  In the far distance you can see the triple towers of the cathedral about 5km away.
When the others arrived, a bit wet and bedraggled, we decided to visit the pilgrim statues and then have a snack in the cafeteria. When Finn walked with us in 2007 se had the best meal on the whole Camino in the buffet restaurant here.
We met later in the cafeteria for dinner and had a short meeting about our walk to Santiago tomorrow. Johnnie walker had texted me to please let him know when we arrived as he wanted to take us into the cathedral.
The Irish lady would meet us at the Porto do Camino and we would all walk in together. I gave them each a little wire pilgrim with snail made by a homeless man outside San Marcos.

It was an exciting thought that the Caracoles would make it to Santiago after 16 days of slow walking.