Day 4:
The Irish lady had a fever and hot sweats and there was no way she could walk in the cold today so I got to walk with the group again, which was lovely.
It was a long climb up from the bridge, through the forest to where the path joins the road at a brick factory. There is nowhere to stop between Portomarin and Gonzar (8km) so we enjoyed the scenery and the path which followed the road for most of the way. The heavy rains of the last few days (months?) had made the path very muddy in parts and we did some road walking as well.
Reinette was feeling a little shaky today and could feel a migraine coming. Janet's knee had started to hurt on the down hills: Pat felt the cold terribly but by dressing in layers she was able to brave walking with the group.
We arrived at Gonzar and all ordered hot drinks and food. David, our taxi-man came to collect us and take us back to Portomarin.
Welcome to my blog! I am a born-again walker and this is a journal of my wonderful walks. I'm planning on many more. “We are not human beings having a spiritual experience. We are spiritual beings having a human experience.” Teilhard de Chardin (amaWalkerscamino.com)
Showing posts with label Pilgrims. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Pilgrims. Show all posts
Saturday, May 18, 2013
Sunday, April 15, 2012
Ultreïa ! Ultreïa ! E sus eia Deus adjuva nos !
Ultreïa
Tous les matins nous prenons le chemin,
Tous les matins nous allons plus loin.
Jour après jour, St Jacques nous appelle,
C’est la voix de Compostelle.
Ultreïa ! Ultreïa ! E sus eia Deus adjuva nos !
Chemin de terre et chemin de Foi,
Voie millénaire de l’Europe,
La voie lactée de Charlemagne,
C’est le chemin de tous mes jacquets.
Ultreïa ! Ultreïa ! E sus eia Deus adjuva nos !
Et tout là-bas au bout du continent,
Messire Jacques nous attend,
Depuis toujours son sourire fixe,
Le soleil qui meurt au Finistère.
Ultreïa ! Ultreïa ! E sus eia Deus adjuva nos !
A chaque pas, nous devenons des frères
Patron St Jacques, la main dans la main
Chemin de Foi, chemin de lumière
Voie millénaire des pèlerins.
Ultreïa ! Ultreïa ! E sus eia Deus adjuva nos !
Mr St Jacques écoutez notre appel
Des Pyrénées à Compostelle,
Dirigez nous du pied de cet autel, I
ci-bas et jusqu’au Ciel. Ultreïa !
Ultreïa ! E sus eia Deus adjuva nos !
Paroles et musique Jean-Claude Benazet
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xhW5orZIe4w&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RgvxryPGOQE
/FranzPilgerlied.WAV
Music: http://www.jakobus-info.de/ultreia/texte.htm
Tous les matins nous prenons le chemin,
Tous les matins nous allons plus loin.
Jour après jour, St Jacques nous appelle,
C’est la voix de Compostelle.
Ultreïa ! Ultreïa ! E sus eia Deus adjuva nos !
Chemin de terre et chemin de Foi,
Voie millénaire de l’Europe,
La voie lactée de Charlemagne,
C’est le chemin de tous mes jacquets.
Ultreïa ! Ultreïa ! E sus eia Deus adjuva nos !
Et tout là-bas au bout du continent,
Messire Jacques nous attend,
Depuis toujours son sourire fixe,
Le soleil qui meurt au Finistère.
Ultreïa ! Ultreïa ! E sus eia Deus adjuva nos !
A chaque pas, nous devenons des frères
Patron St Jacques, la main dans la main
Chemin de Foi, chemin de lumière
Voie millénaire des pèlerins.
Ultreïa ! Ultreïa ! E sus eia Deus adjuva nos !
Mr St Jacques écoutez notre appel
Des Pyrénées à Compostelle,
Dirigez nous du pied de cet autel, I
ci-bas et jusqu’au Ciel. Ultreïa !
Ultreïa ! E sus eia Deus adjuva nos !
Paroles et musique Jean-Claude Benazet
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xhW5orZIe4w&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RgvxryPGOQE
/FranzPilgerlied.WAV
Music: http://www.jakobus-info.de/ultreia/texte.htm
Labels:
Camino,
Confraternity of St James,
el camino,
pellerin,
Peregrino,
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Ultreya
Saturday, March 26, 2011
YOUR CAMINO
Your Camino – on foot, bicycle, or horseback – in France and Spain.
After years of answering frequently asked questions on Camino forums, the Internet, Camino workshops and on this blog, I have written a book with the answers to thousands of FAQs in a book called ‘Your Camino – on foot, bicycle or horseback, in France and Spain’.
Besides providing information and maps on the many different Camino routes in France and Spain (with links to Jacobean routes in other countries) it offers advice on the best time to go and how to get there, planning daily stages, budgets and accommodation, pilgrim and trail etiquette. Last year I enlisted the help of Greg Dedman (Camino pilgrim and backpacking expert) to help with chapters on technology, weather, food and language. Many other experienced pilgrims have shared their expertise on subjects as diverse as disabled pilgrims, cycling, trekking with children, horses, donkeys and dogs.
There are chapters on clothing and equipment covering boots, shoes, backpacks and sleeping bags, as well as medical matters, relics, Santiago Holy Years and pilgrim statistics.
Besides providing information and maps on the many different Camino routes in France and Spain (with links to Jacobean routes in other countries) it offers advice on the best time to go and how to get there, planning daily stages, budgets and accommodation, pilgrim and trail etiquette. Last year I enlisted the help of Greg Dedman (Camino pilgrim and backpacking expert) to help with chapters on technology, weather, food and language. Many other experienced pilgrims have shared their expertise on subjects as diverse as disabled pilgrims, cycling, trekking with children, horses, donkeys and dogs.
Illustrated with delightful pilgrim characters by Sandi Beukes, this 280-page reference guide covers everything from learning about the Camino on the Internet, books and DVDs, Confraternities and Forums, to taking a donkey on the trail, and how to ‘go’ in the woods!
This will be a must have book for anyone planning their first, or second or third Camino and an invaluable resource for organisations that offer advice and help to pilgrims planning their Caminos.
‘Your Camino – on foot, bicycle, or horseback – in France and Spain’ soon to be published by Pilgrimage Publications. http://www.pilgrimagepublications.com/
Friday, January 07, 2011
A Spiritual Experience on the Camino
Many pilgrims, most with no religion, recount having had a ‘spiritual’ experience whilst walking the Camino even though the majority find it difficult to describe the experience. As a non-theist, I too have found it difficult to explain the spirituality of walking the Camino, leaving aside the history, the religion, the traditions, and the folk-lore. It’s more than all of that.
If we look at the word ‘spirit’ it might help to explain the state one reaches when on a long-distance hike. I have often explained my own spiritual state, after a week or so on the Camino, as being in the ‘Zen-zone’ – when mind separates from the body and the whole becomes one with nature. (This is especially so when walking on the wide open plains of the Meseta).
Spirit (n) L. spiritus
My large, heavy Websters gives at least 18 different meanings of the word ‘spirit’.
1. Breath, courage, vigour, the soul of life.
2. The thinking, motivating, feeling part of man as distinguished from the body, mind, intelligence.
3. Life, will, consciousness, thoughts etc, regarded separate from matter.
What does this mean, “.. the thinking, motivating, feeling part of a person as distinguished from the body and intelligence?”I remember reading the Pulitzer Prize winning book by Professor Carl Sagan, the well-known scientist, called “The Dragons of Eden - Speculation on the evolution of human intelligence.” Although it was written over 30 years ago, the information, suggestions, speculations and assumptions he made then are just as relevant today.
In the chapter on the development of the human brain he focuses on the differences between the left (mostly rational) and right (mostly intuitive) hemispheres, suggesting that our pre-verbal, pre-ambulatory ancestors relied on their ‘intuitive’ non-verbal perceptions and cognitions to survive in the world.
“Intuitive knowledge has an extremely long evolutionary history: if we consider the information contained in the genetic material, it goes back to the origin of life.
The other of our two modes of knowing – the one that in the West expresses irritation about the existence of intuitive knowledge – is quite recent evolutionary accretion.”
Sagan says the people in the West have made so much contact with the left-hemisphere functions of our brains and very little with the right, that we find it difficult to connect with our intuitive brain. The scientist Robert Ornstein compares this to the stars being invisible to us during the day, despite the fact that they always there, day and night. ‘The brilliance of our most recent evolutionary accretion, the verbal abilities of the left hemisphere, obscures our awareness of the functions on the intuitive right hemisphere, which in our ancestors must have been the principal means of perceiving the world”.
He suggests that in the meditative state of many Oriental religions the left hemisphere of the brain is suppressed which allows the ‘stars to come out’.
Isn’t this what meditation and spiritual ‘awareness’ is all about? An Eastern guru said, "Enlightenment flowers when individual consciousness merges into universal consciousness. It is an experience beyond mind.”
Spirit - the thinking, feeling part as distinguished from the body and intelligence.
You can pick out pilgrims who have been on the road for a long time. They have calmness about them, serene and laid-back they don’t rush to be the first to leave the shelter in the morning; they are never the first to arrive, they don’t get caught up in the rush for beds. They don’t judge other pilgrims. They don’t complain about the shelters, or the food, or the paths or even the weather. They have become the Camino – the Way – they are in the Zen-Zone.
Is adrenaline? Endorphines? Is it Seretonin that induces that feeling of emotiona wellness? Is it Zen?
“Zen emphasizes experiential wisdom in the attainment of enlightenment. As such, it de-emphasizes theoretical knowledge in favor of direct realization through meditation and dharma practice.”
Walking-Zen is the exquisite state you reach when you walk without awareness. You are no longer aware of the pack on your back or the blister on your heel or the sun on your head. You are one with everything around you and although you see everything, you do not think about them in words, they just are. You just are. You are just walking.
You are in the Zen-zone – having a spiritual experience.
Wednesday, March 10, 2010
"Suffer the little Children...."
Photo: el Correo-Gallego
Uraba Carlos is a Colombian writer and researcher, author, among other qualifications, Colombia Colombia en burro o El cristo de los paganos. He arrived in Santiago from St. Jean Pied de Port with his wife Estelle Bousquet, a French teacher, to highlight Colombia 's indigenous Santiaguesa and make visible the suffering of these people who have been subjected to the will of the armed guerrillas and interest economics of drug traffickers for decades.
They arrived at the Obradoiro Square with their three children: the little Wayra, a mere year and a half old who traveled the 800 kilometers of the Camino Francés in his little stroller and his brothers Yuma and Chaska, 3 and 5 years, who walked beside their parents and two adults .
Suffer the little children to come unto Me, and forbid them not:
for of such is the kingdom of God"(Mark 10:13-14).
Pilgrims of Emmaus
"We can confidently recommend the camino to more families with youngsters. With improvements in the infrastructure, principally road safety black-spots throughout the camino and albergue accommodation in Galicia, and increasing the awareness of hospitaleros, the conditions for families on the camino will improve even further."
Robert Sellick - father of a two-year old pilgrim.
"It is easier than people think with a 15 month old and everyone gave us a warm welcome. We did stay mainly in hotels with some albergues where they tended to put us up in the rooms reserved for sick pilgrims. It can't have been too bad as we are planning on going again next year this time with our children who will be 7 and 5 years old. I think it will be more of a challenge as they will have to get there under their own steam. My advice is always the same to people thinking about taking kids on the camino is just do it and see what happens you can always stop and come back another time." Ben - Pili Pala Press
"I am probably one of the youngest people to have walked 893 km on the Camino, I was 8 yrs old at the time and walked it with my mum Krista, my older sister Nelli and my younger brother Noah. We walked the Camino in the year 2000. We walked the Camino to celebrate the year 2000, after my mum read a book called "The Field Of The Star" by Nicholas Luard. She was touched by his regret that he had not spent much time with his late daughter. We wanted to use the time on the Camino to talk and know each other; these days people like us are lucky to have a bedroom of our own, plenty of space, plenty of food and so on, but my mum wanted us to understand that we didn't need any of those things to be truly happy! I'm still only 12 yrs old but the people i met will always be very special, in particular, Wolf. This summer we shall walk the Portugese route. God bless all those who read this."
Pippi Kim -- Sunday, May 23 2004: ( http://www.santiago-compostela.net/ )
August 2010: lavozdegalicia.es
Canadians Chantal and Jean- Berchmans pilgrimage from St. Jean with the best company, ilittle Mickaël .
He served six months doing the Camino de Santiago. Yesterday afternoon the baby slept peacefully in Mickaël hostel O Cebreiro, accompanied by his parents, Chantal Lacombe and Jean- Berchmans Poulin, spellbound watching him . They are from Canada. " He is six months , but looks bigger , " they say. Indeed, it seems. Well fed (Chantal gives the chest) and well maintained . Smile barely awake. And those who know about it , they will realize that such a thing is not the very common. Travelling in a chair ( which weighs about 21 kilos, more or less) on the back of the father. Loaded with diapers, diaper rash creams and everything that little may need to have .
They left St. Jean Pied de Port (France ) on 9 July. They average between 15 and 22 km a day , always in the morning and avoiding the intense heat.
"It would be good for the baby, " explains Jean- Berchmans in a good Spanish. Therefore, the high temperatures of the plateau , from Burgos to Leon decided to travel by bus. For Dad , this is the third way; he did in 2008 , alone, also from Saint Jean , in 2009 , with Chantal pregnant, and now 2010, with the baby in tow , "so that knows Spain » . Van watching it grow day by day , awaken your senses , "From his chair, watches everything , landscapes, people. " She smiles constantly.
Pilgrimage because " we love this Way "because it is a therapy , dismissing concerns and meeting people "interesting . " The best school . Reflect that perhaps the small can not remember the experience later , but the feelings of what is now living in a way, yes you will be arriving within. While walking, they sing . Are messages sent between the lines: if the feel, the capture and , if the answer, there will be happiness . And they are happy. A lot.
Jet lag and Health Concerns: Graham and Elaine
All three of us, baby included, had to deal with half a world’s worth of jet lag (well, maybe a third), having boarded an Air Canada jet in California less than 48 hours before arriving at the trailhead in Roncesvalles to begin our sojourn. Babies’ biological clocks, so I’m told, have more difficulty adjusting to such radical shifts in time zone than do our adult circadian rhythms, and so a rather confused Elliott spent the first few days trying to figure out why the sun was out when he felt it should be night time, and why everyone expected him to sleep when it felt like day.
In retrospect, we ideally should have planned for an adjustment period, perhaps shacked up in a hotel somewhere in the Western or Central European Summer Time zones for a few days, before hitting the trail. However, neither our timetable nor our budget at the time would have allowed for such luxuries anyway, so the point is, for all practical purposes, pretty much moot. This problem, it goes without saying, should be particular to babies coming to the Camino from the Americas, Asia, Australia and the Pacific, and other far-away places and should not affect young ones who live in longitudes closer to Spain. Given our experience, I would say even the littlest peregrinos needn’t have any especial fear for their health (or at least for adequate healthcare) on the Camino de Santiago, above and beyond what one would normally expect in any long trip away from home.
2006 - 930
2007 - 1070
2008- 1093
2009-1272
In the 1999 Holy Year 1470 children were registered at Santiago and in the 2004 Holy Year 7% of the pilgrims registered at Santiago were from 0 - 10 years of age (925 children) and 11 - 15 years (15 967 children)
Mention walking the camino with a baby or child and you’ll be amazed at how strongly people feel about it. Some are virulently against it whilst others completely support the idea. Others are not sure how they feel.
Photo with permission
A recent post on a camino forum by a parent asking for advice about walking with her baby elicited a few cautionary replies, a few constructive responses and some outrightly rude posts from a particularly aggressive hospitalero! (Could he be the agitated hospitalero from Castrojeriz who Graham mentions in his story below who turned them away from the albergue?)
Cautionary:
“I would caution you about walking with an infant. I met a couple travelling with a baby. He was upset many afternoons and cried. The parents apologised and said it was because he was off of his schedule. Well yes, we all were off our schedules on the Camino, but the poor baby didn't really understand why he should be off of his.”
“The main concern about small children on the Camino is illness. The night after I spent in the room next to the upset infant, I was bitten atrociously by bedbugs in an albergue. I needed to walk 16 kilometres to the next town and spent the next three days under the doctor’s care (thank you Spanish medical system.) This is not a complaint about albergues. They are clean and well run. I was grateful for the wonderful accommodations, but illness happens out there. The Camino is not a walk in the park.”
“I believe that babies are constitutionally far more robust than we decadent westerners appreciate. They can actually survive (and thrive) without many of the manufactured items we are seduced into buying for them. That aside, I think the camino will still be there in two or three years (and maybe even longer than that) when the baby is a little older and more robust.”
Against:
“Unless there is an overwhelmingly powerful reason to take a baby on a walking pilgrimage I would advise against it. By car and staying in decent hotels... maybe. On foot and staying in albergues... not recommended.”
Virulent!
“No to a babe in arms on the Camino! I did my first Camino in '97. As I type this, I'm in my second 2 weeks in León as a volunteer. I've worked with children as young as one (though most older) for 40 years. In the vast majority of guesthouses, there are no facilities for a nursing baby. What about the other pilgrims’ wishes who need a good night's rest. They have enough to worry about with bed bugs, flushing toilets and snorers.
I would have to repeat; the Way, the guesthouses, the communal baths are no place for a mother and a small baby!!” (This from a hospitalero trained to accept all pilgrims as though they are Christ himself!)
Constructive:
“A couple from Canada, authors of two or three books on the camino, walked the Via de la Plata a couple of years ago with a ten month old baby. Certainly the Spanish people were very welcoming of the baby and in restaurants the baby was usually carried off for play by one of the older women while they ate.”
“I have seen a number of alternative ways of carrying kit on the Camino which do not involve back packs. One was a guy who had an A frame which had a single wheel at the apex and the other ends clipped either side of a waist belt like: http://www.kayak-canada.ca/Carrix/carrix.htm#features
I know it looks a bit improbable, but the little fellow will take up all the weight on your back plus you need to carry more in the way of supplies for him and you even if your main pack has gone on ahead. Even if he is plugged into a natural food supply you still need water + nappies etc.
“I've met a number of people with babies on the Camino routes. It has its own challenges and I think age and availability of suitable accommodation are the determinant factors.”
Photo from Ergo Baby
“I believe babies are very portable and easy to manage if breastfed. Only piece of equipment you need is a sling like the Maya type. Breastfed babies cry very little. They sleep with mom and need not cry at night. So I do not think of the baby as a problem in an albergue. I would think adults would be noisier than a baby would. I would take the sweet sounds of a nursing baby over a snorer any time. Take enough money so that you can indulge in a private room once or twice. I would take a baby over a toddler since the younger babes are in arms and like I said very portable and easy to manage. Do it.”
“Mums have been doing things with babies since they lived in caves and the species has survived!!!”
“Come to think of it, how many babies do you suppose were born on the Camino over the centuries? I think our squeamishness about sharing the Camino with babies is a modern phenomenon.”
STORIES ABOUT LITTLE PILGRIMS
Nicola and Rio: (All photos with permission)
The youngest pilgrim at 5 months?
I waked the camino last year with my 5 month old son. He was in a baby backpack - he couldn't have been any younger as he wouldn't have been able to hold his head up. When we overcame things like inflatable cushions on each side of his head for when he fell asleep, we loved it. When we set off from SJPDP Rio - my son was the youngest pilgrim on record. I'm sure that in history, before the records were kept there are many whom have walked and the child not had their own credential, or the child was in fact younger - if not born en route! However I feel proud of Rio's claim!
99% of people were very welcoming & friendly. Be prepared to stop regularly en route as everyone wants to take your photo. Its most definitely something I would recommend - but probably to have someone else with you. I had such an amazing experience I'm writing a book of it and am now planning the Via de la Plata! It'll be hard & challenging but so's life.
Do, if possible at least start off with someone else. I started for the first 2 weeks with a very good freind - I wouldn't have got very far without her.
Do be fit & strong: nappies weigh a lot!
Do have a guidebook to see where you can next buy nappies.
Do have some spare cash to stay in a hotel for the odd night.
Do be prepared to bath your baby in sinks!
Do be prepared not to stop for coffee at the cafes with everyone else - your baby will be asleep on yur back. You need to stop when it suits them.
Do take a few dangly toys.
Do be prepaed to sing lots of repetative songs - these become second nature to the rythm of your steps.
Don't set out to complete the whole thing - it can be completed at a later time if need be.
Don't expect anything from anyone. Any help anyone offers is a beautiful bonus.
Photo with permission: Graham, Elaine and Elliott - 1 year-old:
My then-girlfriend/now-fiancée Elaine and I walked the Camino with her one-year-old son Elliott, from Roncesvalles to Santiago, over about five weeks this June and July. While there were certainly challenges in taking the baby along, above and beyond what a typical peregrino would expect to face, we still managed to have an immensely rewarding experience, make friends, keep up with the pack, and generally have a good time -- and that goes for all three of us.
We had a few important factors going in our favour from the beginning that made the trip (which included not just the Camino itself, but also trans-continental and trans-Atlantic flights and exceptionally long bus rides from and to Madrid at either end) much easier for us than it could have potentially been. The most significant of these was that the baby has a very easygoing, mild, gregarious temperament and was able to graciously tolerate things like the constant changes of scene as we went from albergue to albergue, the incessant and invariably loud attention of rural Spanish women over the age of 60 (especially in Galicia ... hmmm...), and having to spend several hours each day sleeping, sightseeing, or happily babbling to us while strapped into a backpack.The second and third major factors had to do with how my fiancée had been raising the baby. For the baby's first year, he practically lived on my fiancée's back in an Ergo (http://www.ergobabycarrier.com/), accompanying her when she walked to and from work, school, and everywhere else. He was thus extremely comfortable with being in a backpack for long periods of time (though only when it was actually on somebody's back). You might want to consider using a lighter baby carrier like the Ergo to get a child used to being carried around that way before you take him or her on the Camino.
My fiancée had also practiced Elimination Communication (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elimination_communication) with the baby from the time he was a newborn, which meant that he rarely soiled his diaper along the trail (and if he did, it was usually our fault for misinterpreting or ignoring his signals that he had to go). This eliminated the need for us to carry large quantities of bulky disposable diapers; the two cloth ones we brought for him to wear on the trail (just to be safe) were usually sufficient to deal with any accidents.
Finally, we had in our favour the fact that human adults are naturally predisposed to find babies cute, and smiling, happy babies doubly so. The baby, far from being "not appreciated" by our fellow peregrinos, became kind of a mascot to the others in our cohort along the Camino. He would spend his afternoons and evenings exploring the albergues, playing with us and the other peregrinos (who were not above competing with each other for the baby's attention), and generally having a grand old time being everybody's friend. In fact, more people knew his name than ours: in one town, we accidentally followed an old, faded arrow onto a side street that the Camino had apparently been rerouted away from. Two Korean peregrinas behind us noticed that we had strayed from the correct path and, in order to call our attention to the matter, they shouted the baby's name; they couldn't recall either of ours.
As for equipment, we necessarily had to carry heavier than average loads. After all, we were packed for three and carrying one. My fiancée carried the majority of our stuff in a full-sized women's hiking backpack, while I carried the baby and some of our heavier-but-less-bulky items in a specialized, baby-carrier backpack made by Sherpani (a discontinued predecessor to http://sherpani.us/product.aspx?bO3FscouH=1&GQd0EjaqX=6&pmdoXJC4W=149) that we picked up on clearance from REI -- though if I had it to do over again, I would have spent the extra money and bought a Deuter Kid Comfort II (http://www.deuterusa.com/products/productDetail.php?packID=kidcomfortII&sub=family&tert=family). To help my occasionally-problematic ankles support the rather excessive weight, I walked the Camino in my heavy-duty, military-issue Corcoran jump boots (http://www.uscav.com/Productinfo.aspx?productID=7615&TabID=1), which ended up performing stunningly well. Those parachute boots left my feet in much better condition at the end of the day than much lighter and springier shoes left the feet of many other peregrinos who were carrying lighter loads. I did have some painful but not catastrophic difficulties with my left knee for the last 120km or so, but I would blame sliding around on the crumbly, slate-strewn hillside trails of western León and Galicia for that long before I would look to load or footwear. My fiancée, who has the constitution of a Sherpa, alternated between a pair of low-top hiking shoes and a pair of Teva sandals and walked the Camino with nary a problem.
Fortunately, we didn't need to carry heavy jars of baby food or anything like that; the baby was more than happy to eat what we were eating -- in fact, he insisted upon it. His beginner's set of teeth was able to handle tortillas, which he loved, and other soft foods with ease, and we would just chew or mash anything he couldn't handle on his own for him. His mother was also still nursing him; and so any nutritional deficiencies of the local diet; which in some areas seemed to consist solely of white bread, coffee, sugar, and ham; could be made up with breast milk.
Photo with permission:
Albergues were surprisingly tolerant of letting a baby spend the night; we were only given the "there's no room in the inn" treatment once, by an extremely agitated hospitalero who seemed convinced that a baby would somehow "contaminate" his refugio and refused us a place to sleep for the night, despite protests by other peregrinos who knew us that the child wouldn't be a problem (here's looking at you, Refugio Tradicional de Castrojeriz). Oftentimes, we were even given special consideration at albergues, such as being assigned bunks somewhat separated from where the majority of the peregrinos were to sleep so that, if the baby woke up at night crying (which he did from time to time, usually because he had to pee), he wouldn't disturb anyone else.
Even when we were thrown in with the main group, though, the ten or twenty seconds of the baby's crying before my fiancée or I could get up and rush him to the bathroom to take care of his problem was less disturbing to fellow peregrinos' sleep than the near-constant presence of multiple people whose snores could demolish entire city blocks if suitably concentrated, packaged, and deployed.
In the end, when we made it to Santiago, the Pilgrim's Office was nice enough to put the baby's name into an annotation on our Compostelas, so there's a record of him having done the Camino along with us (does riding on my back for 800km count as travelling to Santiago a caballo?).
We're not sure what sort, if any, of a lasting impression the trip has made on the baby, but he seemed to enjoy himself immensely while we were on the road in Spain. There's only one thing that's odd about him now that we can attribute directly to our walk on the Camino. He was starting language acquisition in earnest at the time we hopped on a plane to wing our way to Spain. Even though we're back in the California now, he still gets very insistent, for example, about wanting a drink of "ag'ga" and likes to call our attention to any four-legged "peh'oh" or "gah'oh" that happens to walk by. It seems that, while my fiancée and I brought home Compostelas and seashells for souvenirs of Spain, the baby brought home Spanish words.
2 Year-Old pilgrim
The Family as Pilgrim on the Camino Francés By Robert Sellick
(First published in the CSJ of UK Bulletin)
A Promise
When our son was born relatively late in our lives, we made a promise to attempt a pilgrimage on the Camino de Francés to offer thanks, celebrate new life and explore the experience as a family together sharing pilgrim customs. We made this camino together. We completed the camino nine weeks later with our two year old son, Martín after many adventures, much help, little criticism, intense sun, summer storms, surprising places, strange situations, and a dream of what the final outcome might be.
Preparation
We decided to make the journey when he was two years old. He could already express his own feelings and walk, yet he was still sufficiently loyal to his parent’s wishes and preferences. Moreover he didn’t weigh more than the normal backpack. We researched about families making the camino but found little specific information available. For several years I had been a member of the Confraternity of Saint James which offered us plenty of information and encouragement.
Departure
We chose to set out in May when the days are longer, with moderate temperatures, and the natural beauty more colourful. We decided to take a light compact push-chair (actually the wheels were too small for the stony paths) and a backpack to carry the child. Also there were numerous clothes, nappies, food, first aid, remedies, books and toys for Martín on top of the normal pilgrim load. We also carried his birthday present, a small pedal-less bicycle, which we hung on the backpack or pram, so that he could develop his own mobility. We left St Jean-Pied-de-Port to cross the Pyrenees and entered Spain on foot. By now we were clear that our progress would be much slower than any other pilgrim. More importantly, patience and sensitivity to the emotional needs of the child are the keys to a successful camino. In this way his pace became our optimum camino.
Spirit
When we visited the church in Roncesvalles to seek a blessing, Martín became nervous in the dark silent atmosphere. He cried and shouted as a priest blessed him. Gradually during our pilgrimage Martín´s behaviour changed. During the long days with villages far from one another, Martín shouted enthusiastically tulung, tulung (tolling bell) or torre, torre as he spotted churches still distant on the horizon. For him they became important destinations. Little by little when we entered churches, hermitages, monasteries and cathedrals he became calmer and conscious of the peaceful atmosphere. During the final weeks when we entered a church he would sit for a minute or two on a pew to contemplate the atmosphere.
Adaptation
The continuous movement and change day by day is a big challenge as much for a child as for adults. For the parents it is the tiredness caused by the additional weight of the child and his luggage. For the child it is the constant movement of people and places. Also the parents are concerned with the energy, health and enthusiasm of the child. The rest stops were as important as the progress so that he could play, rest, explore, and eat. The daily progress varied between six and twenty kilometers. Some days were spent mainly resting. Very important elements of the stops were the albergues and refugios on the camino. We spent more than fifty nights on the camino.
Our timetable was not the usual pilgrim one. A child sleeps longer than an adult and we were always the last to leave the albergue in the mornings. Occasionally an understanding hospitalero would offer us an extra hour in bed in the morning. Frequently we put Martín, still asleep in his sleeping-bag directly into his push-chair. We dressed him when we stopped for breakfast an hour or so later.
Rhythm
After a late start we always walked in the mornings with a long stop at mid-day for lunch and rest. We preferred a stop in the shade of trees with sandwiches more than the pilgrim menu because it gave Martín more space to play and rest. Playgrounds were very important destinations; we stopped for five hours in the park in Hospital de Orbigo. At about six in the evening we began to walk again if we wanted to reach a more distant albergue. We enjoyed the tranquillity of the camino at sunset so much. The evenings offered us a far more peaceful space for contemplation.
Albergue Nights
Arriving at dusk at an albergue it was always a little uncertain if there would still be room. Frequently the hospitaleros were a little surprised to receive a family with such a young child. However they nearly always gave us a warm welcome. Only in a very few cases did the hospitaleros doubt if they could accommodate children. We had to convince them that Martín would not cry or shout in the night, certainly not as loudly as the infamous snorers, or noisy pre-drawn risers who rouse everyone. Martín invariably shared one of our beds. From time to time other pilgrims seemed a little uneasy having a child in their dormitory or dining room as if their dreams and relaxation might be disrupted.
On very few occasions was Martín intolerable. Normally he would be in bed by lights out, and frequently the pilgrims were charmed by him. Occasionally hospitaleros offered some special treat; such as a room for three of us alone, or playing with Martín for an hour so that we could get away for a short break. There were very generous hospitaleros who were sensitive to our needs, like those at Eunate, Cirauqui, Nájera, Hospital de San Nicolas, Bercianos, Astorga and Gaucelmo at Rabanal. The parish church albergues had the strongest spirit of hospitality offered by volunteers. The private albergues also offered a distinctive, and frequently warm, welcome. Some of the municipal and Galician albergues were more formal and less sensitive to the needs of a family. In Galicia there were fewer private albergues and the rush of pilgrims in July frequently meant no spaces were left in the state ones by the time we arrived. We were increasingly dependent on the hostales.
Completing the pilgrimage
At last after nine weeks on the camino we reached Santiago. For each one of us it was a very personal experience. Moreover together as a family we came to understand our spiritual capacity to support one another in moments of uncertainty and exhaustion. Not only did we share motivation but also the patience with the daily rhythm which varied day by day and from dawn to dusk.
No Compostela for Youngsters
We were very disillusioned by the decision of the church authorities to reject Martín’s application for his compostela. We felt that Martín made his pilgrimage with so much effort and spirit, and that not once did he express a wish to give up the adventure. Moreover that Martín, at his early age, achieved and learnt much more than us, his elders. The pilgrim office gave us several reasons for declining his application:
* His age – so young that he did not have the ability to choose for himself to do the camino.
* His lack of capacity to express verbally the significance of the pilgrimage on his religious and spiritual development.
* That he had not taken his first communion.
Our opinion is that there are other pilgrims of all ages who have not taken first communion, but as adults were not asked if they had taken first communion, their applications for compostelas were obviously not declined for that reason. He was given a certificate acknowledging his completion of the pilgrimage.
Conclusion
We felt that some of these norms need reviewing because the youngsters put more effort into the camino. They develop a unique spiritual sensitivity from the experience distinct from but shared with that of their parents. The Camino Francés was a great success for each of us in the family, and something that will always be shared between the three of us. We can confidently recommend the camino to more families with youngsters. With improvements in the infrastructure, principally road safety black-spots throughout the camino and albergue accommodation in Galicia and increasing the awareness of hospitaleros, the conditions for families on the camino will improve even further. Martín, we hope, will return to follow his own footsteps on the camino once again.
Robert Sellick contributed this paper to the Foro Europeo Conference held in October 2007 in Jaca, which he and William Griffiths attended on behalf of CSJ.
http://www.chariotcarriers.com/
Useful Websites:
The Family Adventure Project. One of the blogs is about a family who did the camino on tandem bikes with trailers. http://pedallingpilgrims.blogspot.com/2008/08/set-in-stone.html Contact: mail@familyonabike.org
The Littlest Pilgrim" blog about an Aussie couple who travelled with their 1 year-old daughter. Read their very useful blog for mental, physical and spiritual practical preparation.
After a weeks training and a fitness test during the Easter holiday in April 2005, 8 year old Camille started her pilgrimage to Compostela by walking the 65km from Puy en Velay to Saint Roch. It took 5 days. http://terragalice.blog4ever.com/blog/lirarticle-45469-167723.html
Pint Sized pilgrims on the camino http://www.soultravelers3.com/
DVD - VIDEO
"El Camino de Santiago. La Ruta Xacobea Paso a Paso". (The Way of Sanitago, the Xacobean Route, Step by Step) is a lovely French documentary that focuses on the pilgrims' experiences, reasons for undertaking the pilgrimage, and spiritual changes felt. It shows some ingenious means created by pilgrims with children, such as carts fashioned with mountain bicycle wheels. The documentary is available only in French and Spanish. It is distributed by DVD Spain: http://www.dvdspain.net/
Little Pilgrim's Journey to Santiago de Compostela
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TnqpoELmDbM&feature=player_embedded#at=30
Little Pilgrim's Journey to Santiago de Compostela
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TnqpoELmDbM&feature=player_embedded#at=30
BOOKS:
"El Camino de Santiago: Rites of Passage" Chimenti, Wayne (2006) Trafford Publishing. ISBN-13: 978-1412056380. is about the Chimenti family's travels on a 500-mile walking pilgrimage. It started as Nahja, their 12-year old daughter's "rite of passage". It turned out to be a test for everyone.ISBN/EAN - 9788424105839 (English) 9788424105594(Spanish)
Author - Alonso, Juan Ramón
Age- 2-5 years
"Pepe Mouse and his friends in Santiago de Compostela."
ISBN/EAN - 9788424105952 (English)
9788424105716(Spanish)
Author - Alonso, Juan Ramón
Description: Activitiy Book with Stickers
Go to http://www.casadellibro.com/ISBN/EAN - 9788424105952 (English)
9788424105716(Spanish)
Author - Alonso, Juan Ramón
Description: Activitiy Book with Stickers
Enter this in the search box: PEPERRATON Y SUS AMIGOS EN SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA
If you want to see the entire series, just enter PEPERRATON Y SUS AMIGOS
Peperraton in every town in Spain, as well as both English and Spanish will appear.
If you want to see the entire series, just enter PEPERRATON Y SUS AMIGOS
Peperraton in every town in Spain, as well as both English and Spanish will appear.
Useful gear:
http://www.kayak-canada.ca/Carrix/carrix.htm#features
http://www.deuterusa.com/products/family.php
http://www.chariotcarriers.com/
Backacking Websites:
http://backpackingwithbaby.com/
http://www.thetrailmaster.com/content/hiking-with-children-trailmaster-ten-tips
http://www.backpacking.net/featured4.html
http://www.elklakeresortmontana.com/hiking_with_young_children.htm
ttp://www.eioba.com/a26882/hiking_with_children
http://www.adventureparent.com/hiking-with-small-children.html
Backpacking Books: (From Amazon.com)
Backpacking With Babies and Small Children: A Guide to Taking the Kids Along on Day Hikes, Overnighters and Long Trail Trips (Paperback)- Camping and Backpacking With Children (Paperback)
Friday, November 27, 2009
"REAL" PILGRIMS
— Canterbury Tales —
Dante said in the 13th c that '..in a limited sense pilgrim means only one who travels to or returns from the house of St James.."
He suggested that the long distance travelled, and being a foreigner in Galicia, made one a pilgrim. He did not say that pilgrim means one who 'walks' to the house of St James, only 'one who travels'. Until the invention of the bicycle - and trains, planes and automobiles - the only mode of travel was by boat, riding a donkey or horse, or foot slogging. Pilgrims used whichever mode of transport was available to them that they could afford. Poor pilgrims walked; middle-class pilgrims might hire a donkey, wealthy pilgrims could hire horses and travel with servants.
Besides Dante, what do the experts say?
A: Wordnet (i) someone who journeys in foreign lands (ii) someone who journeys to a sacred place as an act of religious devotion.
B: Wiki Answers (i) someone who goes on a pilgrimage, a visit to a place that is religious
C: Wikipedia: a pilgrim (lat. peregrinus) is one who undertakes a pilgrimage far afield, traditionally to some place that has religious or historic significance.
D: Oxford: a person who journeys to a sacred place for religious reasons. The word pilgrim comes (in Middle English) from Provençal pelegrin, from Latin peregrinus, 'foreign'.
E: Websters: (i) a person who wanders about (ii) a person who travels to a shrine or holy place usually a long distance away.
No mention of walking, only 'travels'.
According to James Harpur the first pilgrims were the Three Wise Men who, according to the gospel of Mathew, journeyed from the East to Bethlehem guided by a star to pay homage 'to the one who has been born of the jews."
Did they walk? We don't know but it is unlikely. Most pictures show them riding camels.
What is a real pilgrim?
This is the million dollar question that comes up with mind numbing regularity on all the 'camino pilgrim' forums.
Sometimes the answers are so dogmatic and illogical that one can be forgiven for thinking that there are people out there who have a genetic memory of being penitential pilgrims, tramping the pilgrimage trails of Europe in hair-shirts like Godric of Finchale, self-flagellating from one shrine to the next in order to earn indulgences for remission of their sins and time spent in purgatory before they are despatched to heaven or hell. These are the 'Pilgrim Fundamentalists" who vehemently reject everyone else's claims to the title of 'pilgrim' as profane unless they conform to their naive version of what constitutes a 'real' pilgrim.
So how do they see a real pilgrim?
Firstly, it seems to me that the Pilgrim Fundamentalists' view of a Real Pilgrim is applied exclusively to people making a pilgrimage to Santiago.
If you are one of the 200 million pilgrims who have visited Lourdes since 1869, chances are that you did not walk there.
Over 4 million pilgrims visit Fatima and each year.
10 Million make the pilgrimage to Guadalupe each year and just as many to Rome, and Jerusalem.
It seems that you can be a pilgrim to these shrines even if you take a luxury bus, go with a church tour or get the TGV.
But, according to the Pilgrim Fundamentalists, you can't call yourself a pilgrim to St James unless you walk to his tomb. Furthermore, the sanctimonious idea is that you can only be a 'real' pilgrim if you walk every inch of the way on a long distance route because, irrespective of what the Santiago Archdiocese claims, 100km or 200km just won't cut it! And, God help you if you cheat! Taking a bus into Burgos, getting a taxi to the next albergue, skipping a few kilometers by taking a train or sending your backpack up a hill by motor vehicle will send you straight to purgatory!
Some Pilgrim Fundamentalist go as far as to insist that in order to qualify as a Real Pilgrim, one should carry a backpack (the heavier the better), stay only in basic pilgrim shelters (not the newer, up-market, private hostels that have sprung up in recent years) and definitely not in a hotel: eat frugal pilgrim meals (no fine-dining in restaurants or bistros) and, one can earn 'real pilgrim' Brownie points if you walk in winter, suffer blisters, tendonitis, shin splints, stress fractures and lose all your toe nails. To qualify as a Real Pilgrim, no pain really means no gain.
Pilgrim Fundamentalist often refer to 'real pilgrims' as those who attempt to emulate 'tradtional medieval' pilgrims, a completely impossible task considering that mind-set, intention, landscapes, eras have all changed. Their rather self-righteous criteria only seems to extend to walking, sleeping and eating - they do not apply their rules to the type of clothing a pilgrim should wear or equipment they can carry and paradoxically, even though the modern peregrino is expected to walk to Santiago, he or she is allowed to carry a credit card, travelers cheques, cash passport, iPod, digital camera, use the Internet, or send messages home via their Blackberry. They can wear gortex boots, sweat-wicking shirts, polypropylene sock, carry telescopic Nordic walking poles and, buy a return ticket home. The Real Pilgrim is a one way phenomenom. The rules only apply to the journey there. Once they arrive they can morph back into their 21st Century skins and fly home.
So who were the real pilgrim role models?
There exists a confused notion among Pilgrim Fundamentalists that only the mendicant foot-slogging Medieval pilgrim can claim to a be a Real Pilgrim. Bugger all the other millions who travelled long, dangerous distances in ships and/or on horseback.
Who was the traditional, medieval pilgrim?
Taking into account that the Middle Ages spanned a period of over 1000 years of turbulent change, from the 5th c to the 16thc, trying to conjure up a picture of a representative, traditional medieval pilgrim is more than a little problematic. There was a melting-pot of rich and poor, pious and impious, penitential and pleasure seeking pilgrims just as there are today. By the 16th century the majority were homeless vagabonds, despised and reviled and treated with great suspicion.
At a Council of Europe Congress held in 1988 - just after the birth of the modern pilgrimage to Santiago - a speaker elaborated on the decadence of the pilgrimage.
There are just as many pictures of pilgrims on horseback as there are of walking pilgrims. Some famous pilgrims who went on horseback - and left us their written accounts - include the Poitou priest Aimery Picaud (12th C - Liber Sancti Jacobi), the German Knight Arnold von Harff (15th C - Pilgrimage of the Horseman) and the Italian priest Domenico Laffi (17th C - A Journey Westward to Santiago in Galicia and Finisterre).
Are we, 21st Century pretenders, to strip them of their titles of 'Real Pilgrims" because they did not walk to Santiago?
At a Council of Europe Congress held in 1988 - just after the birth of the modern pilgrimage to Santiago - a speaker elaborated on the decadence of the pilgrimage.
"The oft quoted decline and
decadence of the pilgrimage to Compostela started here [16th c], although not in
quantitative terms. It was the extreme forms of far-reaching qualitative
changes which perverted ideas and practice. It is undeniable that the peregrination
religiosa lost ground and that a tendency to depersonalise and externalise
pilgrim practices emerged. The circumstances of the age also contributed to
this: too few jobs for a rising population, unemployment, robber bands preying
on the French routes, criminal acts by pilgrims and, from the 15th century
onwards increasing criticism of the peregrination itself."
And, there must have been a few fashion changes from the 5th C to the 16th Century. Even though a few Popes decreed a particular dress for pilgrims, why are they always depicted in the same long robes? We never see pilgrims in tights even though there is a 15th C song about Robin Hood to that effect! Statues, sculptures and paintings give us an idea of what pilgrims from the different centurieslooked like, what they wore and how they travelled.
There are just as many pictures of pilgrims on horseback as there are of walking pilgrims. Some famous pilgrims who went on horseback - and left us their written accounts - include the Poitou priest Aimery Picaud (12th C - Liber Sancti Jacobi), the German Knight Arnold von Harff (15th C - Pilgrimage of the Horseman) and the Italian priest Domenico Laffi (17th C - A Journey Westward to Santiago in Galicia and Finisterre).
Are we, 21st Century pretenders, to strip them of their titles of 'Real Pilgrims" because they did not walk to Santiago?On the Vatican website: http://www.vatican.va/ you will find a list of Jubilee Pilgrimages of the Holy Father (John Paul II) from 1979 to 2004. These include pilgrimages to many countries and shrines including two pilgrimages to Santiago. Did the Holy Father walk there? No, of course not. So, are the Pilgrim Fundamentalists qualified to strip him of his pilgrim title too?
The root of the misconception:
In 1953 the Archdiocese in Santiago decided to award a special certificate to pilgrims who walked at least 100km to the tomb of the saint for religious reasons. (All records of these early certificates prior to 1970 have been lost). Although the Compostela is based on a 14th C document, it is now considered a souvenir and is no longer used as proof to earn an indulgence. I reckon this was a mistake. All prilgrims should be given a document for visiting the tomb of St James - no matter how they arrive there. It has made the journey more important than the destination. Some walk all the different routes, planning their holidays around a walk on the camino. Getting to Santiago is often secondary or not important.
A bit of 'Malice in Wander-land?"
"Would you tell me, please, which way I ought to go from here?" said Alice. "That depends a good deal on where you want to get to," said the Cat. "I don't much care where ...," said Alice. "Then it doesn't matter which way you go," said the Cat. (Lewis Carrol)
One often hears pilgrims say - "it is the journey, not the destination that is important". That is a very un-"traditional pilgrim" thing to say. The destination held the promise of redemption (not the journey, even though longer journeys offered a few more days off purgatory) and the Archdiocese has this to say on their website: "The most important thing here is the Goal, not the Way. Jacobean Pilgrims do not go on pilgrimage for the sake of the Way. Through the Way they do get to the Tomb of Saint James "the Great"."
Walking pilgrims can frame their credentials - these will be their "Certificate of Conscience", proof that they walked to Santiago.
Walking to Santiago is a choice. Nobody forces you to walk 100km or 1000km - it is your choice. The fact that you have decided to walk doesn't make you a better pilgrim than the person who saves up all their money to travel to Santiago to visit the tomb of the saint for religious reasons.
A wise lady recently said, "Pilgrim is as pilgrim does" - I think its time to stop all this judgemental, self-righteous nonsense about 'real' pilgrims.
Over 12 million pilgrims are expected to visit Santiago next year - only 250 000 are expected to walk - and less than 10% will walk more than 114km to the city. Many will journey long distances to reach Spain and the shrine and all have the right to be called PILGRIMS.
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Wednesday, April 08, 2009
WALKING THE CAMINO IN SPRING

These photos are obviously NOT what you want to see in Spring on the Camino!! They were taken between February and April in Galicia.
2017 has had a longer winter than usual;
Facebook posts:
30th April:
Wow! I just finished walking through forceful winds and driving, sleet like rain between Hornillos and Castrojerez... very cold!
It's snowing in Foncebadón !!!! ❄❄❄. Be careful please.
April 30, rain, snow and wind in Rabanal del Camino all the way pass Cruz de Ferro towards Molinaseca
Four pilgrims from the Camino were rescued in Navarre with symptoms of hypothermia yesterday.
Firefighters decided to travel the traditional Camino route route to check if any pilgrim needed assistance in the face of bad weather.
They were transferred to the shelter of Roncesvalles and have not had to receive medical attention. According to the Government of Navarre, at about 15.20 hours a woman of Brazilian nationality, who was next to two other pilgrims in the shelter of Izangorre, requested help due to poor weather conditions. The Burguete firefighters were mobilized to the place in an SUV and have moved the woman, with symptoms of mild hypothermia, and her two companions, to the hostel of Roncesvalles. Given the weather conditions in the Zone, with precipitations of water and snow and strong wind, the firemen have decided to cross the traditional way of the route jacobea to check if some pilgrim more needed assistance. They found a woman of English nationality, also with symptoms of hypothermia who was also transferred to the shelter of Roncesvalles.
https://tinyurl.com/m2bazkc
27th April: According to Weather Underground, it's snowing tonight in Burgos! Is anyone there who can confirm?
Just finished! Started in Pamplona with lots of sunshine and very warm weather, then came the wind, then the rain, and finally the snow! Just beautiful!!
26th April: Leaving Fonfria toward Sarria today and I encountered ice, warmth, snow, and finally sun again!
A bit of snow and a lot of mud on the way to Pola de Allande on the Primitivo today.
25 March:
Wet, cold, and muddy day today (March 25, 2017) from Puente la Reina to Estella. Now it's snowing.
13 March: Winter weather finally came to Maryland, with significant snow now expected.
March 2017: Snow photos in Burgos
http://burgosconecta.es/tema/nieve/
.........................................................................................................................................................
2013 has had a very late spring with snows, sleet and hail, heavy rainfall and some flooding on the Camino Frances. Pilgrims walking in May have experienced freezing temperatures, snow in the Pyrenees (making the Route Napoleon impassable) and snow on the Cebreiro range.
Galicia had heavy rainfalls from November to June with flooding causing the closure of some paths and rivers bursting their banks.
March 2013: The body of a Brazilian pilgrim was found not far from the Lepoeder summit. Everything was covered in snow and it appears that he lost his way and fell. His body wqas only found a few days later.
April 27: http://walkingtheway2013.blogspot.com/2013/04/o.html
16 May: "The snow is coming down heavily now and it is the middle of May. I wonder what tomorrow has in store for us. We awoke to a winter wonderland with several inches of snow on the ground. It was absolutely beautiful. They say this is the first time that O’Cebreiro has had snow in May in ten years." http://www.renereid.com/blog/2013/05/17/journey-from-la-portela-de-valcarce-to-o%E2%80%99cebreiro/
23rd May: "Yes, Roncesvalles had big snow last week,and when I slept over there on the 21st, there were still banks of snow about 18inches thick. So no surprise the temps are around 0 and 1 degree in the morn, maybe going up to 7 degrees during the day."
"I also walked on 23 May, but we could not take the Route Napoleon because of the weather. We were also told of 2 other deaths on the Pyrenees in May. There was a rumour going around that a woman had fallen and died and her body was attached by vultures but no one substantiated either deaths."
June: http://thedancingpilgrim.wordpress.com/2013/06/16/o-cebreiro-rebirth/
THIS IS MORE LIKE IT!!
Free wall paper - Endless Poppies in Spain by: http://crazy-frankenstein.com/A few months ago I wrote a post on "Walking in Winter" with lots of photos and links to blogs about walking in winter. It was very useful for people planning to walk between November and March. Here is some info on walking in Spring.
Many people ask the question - "What will the weather be like in ....... March, , June, September? There are websites with some general stats for daily temperatures, average rainfall and so on for most of Spain, but the weather has been so unpredicatble the last few years that it is really difficult to advise anybody about the weather.
The camino forum - www.pilgrimage-to-santiago.com/board/weather-in-spain/ has a discussion section on the weather and you can find daily and 7 day forecasts for most Spanish towns, even small ones here:
Weather:
Check the weather history here:
http://www.peterrobins.co.uk/camino/weather.html
http://www.gaisma.com/en/dir/es-country.html
What will it be like in spring?
Spring, late spring that is, can be a wonderful time to walk the camino. Everything is green and the wild flowers are spectacular.Although the first of March is regarded as the start of spring on the coast and in the coastal mountain valleys, it comes a few weeks later on the colder central plain and in the high mountain areas – sometimes as late as May in the snowy villages of the Pyrenees.
By then the spring bulbs are flowering, fruit trees are blossoming, the early almonds are followed in succession by peach, plum, nectarine, quince, pears, avocado, mandarin, oranges, grapefruit and cherries etc..(http://gardeninginspain.com/)
Spain is the second largest producer of cherries in Europe and the seventh largest producer in the world.
Spring is the 'growing and flowering' season so fruit and some vegetables might be scarce until early summer. (September is the harvest festival season). The wheatfields of the meseta are like rolling, rippling seas of green and when you are in the 'Zen zone' you can hear the crickets and the wind in the wheat. In summer and autumn the wheat fields turn to ochre and gold and by October there are massive hay towers in the fields.
What else is special in Spring?
The large white and black European storks return to their gigantic nests atop church towers and structures in early spring. You will see them swooping down into the fields to find food for their young who sit upright in those gigantic nests, clapping their bills loudly, calling for food.For anyone into birding, it is interesting to know that Spain is considered the ‘last bastion’ for Europe’s declining bird populations and according to Howard Youth, a Contributing Editor to ZooGoer who lives in Madrid, all told, about 70 percent of Europe's 495 bird species either visit or breed in Spain. However, Poland is the ‘kingdom’ of the stork and there is no other country with more stork residents per square kilometre. (Visit http://www.poland.pl/ for more info).
About 3000 pairs nest in Spain each spring. The storks - Ciconia - (cigüeña in Spanish) have been building their nests on man made structures since the middle ages when the great forests disappeared in favour of agriculture. According to an article in AMIGOS (June 2004) they form monogamous pairs for breeding but do not migrate together. They reappear at the same nest site in late winter and early spring.
The last stork nest in Great Britain was deserted in 1416. The Dutch name of the stork – ooievaar – comes from old German odobero – bringing luck (ode – luck, baren – bring).
In the Arab world the Muslims believe that storks incarnate the souls of those who did not manage to fulfill their duty of pilgrimage to Mecca. Thus they take this journey in the body of a bird. This is why Muslims feel great respect towards storks, and killing them is equal to killing a man.
From 1934 to 1941 a family of storks was observed 400 km east of Cape Town. At the end of the 1920s storks built a nest in Bredasdorp 200 km east from Cape Town and 25 km north from the Cape Agulhas (southernmost tip of Africa). Storks breed in Bredasdorp till this day. What is more, there were seasons when up to four nests were inhabited in Bredasdorp.
Decades ago, a few nestlings were taken out of Bredasdorp nests to be brought up in the Tygerberg ZOO near Cape Town. In 1975, encouraged by the presence of their kin, wild storks built a nest in the ZOO. Since then storks breed in Tygerberg ZOO every year. In 2000 there were five wild stork nests.
Most guidebooks will tell you that the best time to walk a camino is in May and June or September and October.
Why not in springtime?
Because, walking earlier than May you could, and most probably will, experience snowstorms and blizzards. By November winter is setting in again.
July and August are very hot months and August, being the European holiday month when schools, colleges and factories close, is exceptionally busy on the camino.
The video DVD - "Within the way without", which inter-weaves the pilgrimage stories of a winter, spring and summer pilgrim, clearly shows the different landscapes through the seasons.

As the camino has become more and more popular, people are walking earlier in the year to escape the crowds.
In 2007 the pilgrims' office in St Jean recorded interesting stats on the numbers of pilgrims in the months of March, April and early May that showed that the beginning of May was a peak time on the camino with an average of 238 pilgrims per day starting or passing through St Jean Pied de Port.
http://www.aucoeurduchemin.org/spip/IMG/PDF/stati.pdf
The graph on the website shows two high seasons. One from 23 April to late May with a very high peak from 7 to May 13. (1668 pilgrims in 7 days, an average 238 pilgrims per day).
The 2nd high season from August to mid-September is less clear, since there was a drop in numbers in the 2nd half of August.
As in previous years, in 2007 there was a pronounced decline in June-July with about 900 pilgrims per week.
The 2nd high season from August to mid-September is less clear, since there was a drop in numbers in the 2nd half of August.
As in previous years, in 2007 there was a pronounced decline in June-July with about 900 pilgrims per week.
The table highlights the popularity of May and August in 2007 as in 2006 with significant increases of 127% and 124%
2004 2005 2006 2007
March 453 443
April 2325 2007 2427 3324 134%
May 3946 4651 4749 6025 127%
June 2731 3382 3791 4342 115%
July 3288 3945 3850 4366 113%
Aug 4001 4240 4536 5605 124%
Sept 3241 3569 3991 4820 121%
Oct 1232 1183 1477 1570 106%
Nov 196 169
Walking in early spring has other problems besides snow storms and freezing temperatures. A pilgrim may have to contend with these situations too:
1) Many albergues are still closed.
1) Many albergues are still closed.
- In 2009, Esprit du Chemin in ST Jean Pied de Port opens on 4th April and closes 26th September.
- The albergue Orisson (between St Jean and Roncesvalles) is only open between March and October.
- The municipal albergue in Zubiri also opens from March to October.
- In Pamplona, the German albergue - Casa Paderborn - is open from April to October and the new albergue of Jesus y Maria opens after Easter and closes in October.
3) It can snow right up to May in the high places and for the past 3 years March and April have had cold, snow and rain.
- If it snows, many of the markers and yellow arrows will be covered.
- You might have to walk on the roads which can be dangerous.
Read this blog's entry for the 6th March 2008:
http://mscamino.blogspot.com/2009/03/new-pilgrims-arriving-at-foncebadon.html
"Our third day here has begun. The main room now resembles descriptions of Mt Everest base camp! Several new pilgrims who were stuck at Rabinal have made it here since the storm seems to have broken. Supposedly the road is being plowed so if no change for the worse occurs tomorrow I will try to continue. Outside there are at least 75 centimeters [snow] on the ground with much deeper drifts."
In 2005/2006/2007 and 2008 - March and April were unseasonally cold with late snows and heavy rain. Mud slides and floods closed some of the camino paths and pilgrims had to take transport or long detours on roads to get from one village to the next.
24th March 2008:
A pilgrim struggles up the snow laden path to the Alto del Perdon. The Collegiate of Roncesvalles was snowbound after heavy snowfall whichfell for two days on the area. One of the
strongest storms in recent years resulted in snow levels of between 60cm and 1.2m deepMarch – April 2008:
Truth is, anyone who takes the route from Roncesvalles before May is running the risk of slogging through puddles and mud, snow or rain. I did it in April, and had ankle-deep mud to contend with, as well as driving rain. It was misery, but thankfully we had stopped at Larrosoaña on the way up and reserved a room at the same house where the meals are served. (That was one of the finest hot baths ever taken!) Through the rest of my camino I felt miserable several times, but I could look back on that first day and tell myself, "Hey, at least its not THAT bad!" (Rebekah Scott)
In 2005 and 2007 pilgrims died crossing the Pyrenees from St Jean to Roncesvalles in March and April and in 2008 many snow bound pilgrims had to be rescued from various passes.
What about 2009?
Spring 2009
Early March started off with a cold snap and then the weather improved and according to this blog, they had 16 straight days of sunshine from the 11th to the end of March with cold weather in the high places (which is to be expected) but a few days of over 20oC.
http://artos-camino.blogspot.com/2009_03_01_archive.html
March 2009:
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrG6yL7FiAP16K1MOZyQsABYSDU8kR2cPXgcDBW0NTLulYeobrUWqS827iKhPAqqmahUGYSdxDQBEaZ4R0XO_Rmzcx51TkLQnf7FuLu1Z4ELLEnEwk321pS7eRD1zTMuUQ_iZn/s1600-h/60660709_21mai8MaeruVillamayordeMonjardinQuandlafamillenepeutnousbordercesontlescheminsquilefont.jpg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FwIKOHe949o
But, by mid April, things changed.... This blog describes snow on the way from St Jean to Roncesvalles, freezing temperatures and rain. These Australian peregrinas ignored the advice of the locals in St Jean NOT to take the Route Napoleon and carried on regardless. They were fortunate - they survived to tell their happy tale but in the past 10 years, at least 10 pilgrims have not lived to tell theirs and their stories are written on their grave stones. PLEASE - listen to the locals if they warn you not to walk the cross country route from St Jean to Roncesvalles. Take the road route - it is the 'authentic' pilgrims' route
and a much safer alternative.http://micheleandchrisscamino.blogspot.com/
Easter 2009: Photos - Diaro Navarra
Intense snow has resulted in an Orange Alert on roads in Navarra.
The rain began to fall with intensity from 15:00 hours and the snow came down on the asphalt. A snowplough cleared the road to allow the movement of trucks.
Orange Alert was activated in Navarre forecasting snow this afternoon. According to the last message sent by the State Meteorological Agency (AEMET), the center of Navarre recorded snowfall of 8 inches in 24 hours.
Two hikers were rescued from Burgos on Saturday night on the peak San Lorenzo (La Rioja), at 2271 meters above sea level, after being crushed by a large amount of snow just before the adverse weather conditionsof up to 10 degrees below zero. Mountaineers themselves warned the emergency services of the emergency. After 30 hours the two hikers were located unharmed and led the team of rescue until the parking Valdezcaray, where they arrived around midnight
16th April
http://www.diariodenavarra.es/ reports:
Troops of the Fire Service of the Government of Navarre rescued eight Camino pilgrims this afternoon near Roncesvalles who were in difficulties because of intense storms occurring during the whole day in the Pyrenees of Navarre. The rescues were carried out in three different incidents.
When the first troops were rescuing a pilgrim of 45 years, they were asked by another pilgrim to help three other companions who were about 4 miles from Roncesvalles and showed signs of exhaustion and mild hypothermia. Then, at about 18.16 pm, the Fire Service was called out to help four French pilgrims who had lost their way on the same route. Finally, at 18.16 hours, four French camino pilgrims requested assistance of the SOS Navarre and Navarre Agency.
And on the Aragones route....
a pilgrim described how the Somport Pass was snowed in,
That night there was thunder, lightning and pouring rain. We met a Spaniard and a Frenchman who also wanted to go to Somport. When the bus came to take us up, the driver said that there was much snow but we decided to see for ourselves. Yes, the driver was correct...in fact a blizzard was still going on. We left and started walking but there were about 6-8 inches (16cm) of new wet snow. We could not even see the path, so walked the road down. I took a couple of Photos but not more because of the wind and snow. It was really beautiful when you could raise your head to look. It was a very steep decline so gravity helped us down. The snow became just cold rain. The path was a still very steep downhill trek made of rocks of various sizes from pebbles to small boulders. This made it very difficult to keep your balance, especially since the rain and runoff from the tops of the mountains turned some stretches into little streams of water. My ankles would be going one way, my knees another, and my hips still a different direction to keep balance. Along with this being my first day of walking, I was quickly becoming very tired and hurting a bit. I knew I would not be able to make it back to Jaca, and saw that there were accommodations in Villanúa. This meant only 16 km that day, but they were strenuous ones. Just as I got to the town, the temperature dropped, and a strong wind came up. Then it began to hail...pea sized hail. To my dismay, I found the first Refugio closed...and the second...and to my horror the only hostel in town was closed. I stopped in a bar and asked about a place to stay and they told me of some hotels on the main highway. By this time the hail was thickly frozen on my hat causing the brim to droop. I walked on to the highway. Then I saw a door open and a repairman was there talking to a lady (Isabel). I went up to them and told them of my situation. The lady invited me in, perhaps the frozen look of desparation spured her compassion. She and her husband (Felix)from Logroño were there on holiday. They made me hot tea and he phoned around to find that even the hotels on the highway were closed. He explained that the last day of ski season was Easter and that was probably the reason that everything was closed. It didn´t explain the refugios being closed...but then there were obviously not many "pilgrims" around. After sitting and warming up and getting refreshed.The weather had cleared up a bit, and Felix called the next village, Castillo de Jaca, and secured a room for me. Any room would have done, but this one had a tub...a rare and welcomed feature during my time in Spain. I soaked for a half hour. What a delight!!!!
All emotions that I experience here on the Camino, are more intense than normal. This is especially true when I experience these random acts of kindness like I did from Felix and Isabel. There seem to be a lot of mysteries on the Camino, and one is tuned to interpret them mystically. I chose to think that the hardships of that day set me up to have the peak experience of the kindness shown to me by these two EX-strangers. That is what I will take back with me from this difficult day. That is what will remain in my heart forever.
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