Showing posts with label St James the Greater. Show all posts
Showing posts with label St James the Greater. Show all posts

Wednesday, September 16, 2015

15 SEPTEMBER - SAN ANTON

This morning we realized that we were running out of food supplies and we were very low on candles.  The bread van would arrive between 12 and 12h30 with bread, cookies, eggs and milk but everything else was running low and we had no fresh vegetables. One of us would have to walk to the village to buy groceries.  We decided that it should be me as I knew where the supermecado was and spoke better Spanish than Kristine.

The weather was dreadful, flurries of drizzle and strong winds.  I phoned the hotel Jacobus to ask if they had the number of a taxi which I could phone to collect me but they couldn't understand what I wanted.  So, after sharing the sweeping, cleaning, mopping and stewing the sheets, I left at about 1:30 to walk to Castrojeriz.

It was really windy and I could barely keep on the side of the road, my walking stick flying up every now and then.  Castrojeriz is a long town with about 2km of stony alley ways, steps, ramps and stone buildings, wrapped around the base of the hill with a fabulous ruined castle on the top.  It is about 4 km to the eastern side of the town but another 1 - 2 km to walk to the other end.  When I arrived at the supermarkets they were both closed.  I couldn't believe it!  They would only open again at 5 pm.  What to do?  Walk all the way back with no food?  Stay in the village until 5pm and then go back? 

I decided to get a taxi back to the albergue and asked a young lady in the café-bar across the road to call one for me.  Jesus came to the rescue.  I think Jesus is the only taxi driver in Castrojeriz.  When he dropped me at the albergue I asked him if he would come back for me at 5pm,  wait while I shopped and bring me and the shopping back again. 

At 5pm on the dot Jesus came for me and took me to the supermecado.  I bought everything on the list but, no candles.  I tried the smaller supermarket up the hill with no luck. Jesus was waiting so I piled the packets into the car and he took me back. As I finished unpacking the parcels Justi arrived.  I had forgotten about Justi, our go-to man.  The hotel had told him that I needed to do shopping so he had arrived to fetch me!  Oh well, at least I'd had a walk and got to ride in a taxi all afternoon!

The rain had started sheeting down and the albergue was leaking from at least 6 places on the roof.  We had basins and pots under drips in the dormitory and in the living room.  We closed the glass doors into the albergue and I saw a person covered in a large poncho pushing a pram through the big gate at the bottom.  It was a young couple with their 2 year-old child.  They told us later that evening that there were four of them walking - they had lost their other son in July.
Then, just as we settled down to have dinner, a 'Troubadour' walked through the big gate - a middle-aged man with a pony-tail and a guitar over his shoulder.  "Welcome" I said, as I opened the door, "You are just in time for dinner." (We always set an extra place for 'The Visitor')
"Well, isn't that nice.  Fernando didn't tell me about dinner." he said. 
'Fernando?"
"He didn't call you about the concert?  I've been sent to give you a concert tonight" he said.  "My name is James Kline."
After dinner James Kline - classical guitarist, composer, singer-songwriter, innovator of the 19 string arch harp guitar gave us poor pilgrims a free concert.
We were full that night and had a wonderful dinner and guitar concert in candlelight - using the last of our precious candles.

Tuesday, January 06, 2015

The Manifesto Villafranca del Bierzo - Part 2




MANIFESTO - SECTION 2:

DEFENSE OF CAMINO HERITAGE, DEFINING AND WAY-MARKING CAMINO TRAILS

This is a difficult one for me.  I agree and support all of the proposals under this section. 

But, I have doubts about the validity of the so-called ‘ONE ROUTE’ called the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route, which was created by the Council of Europe in 1984 – 1987 and culminated in the “ONE ROUTE” being added to the World Heritage list in 1993 . 

For a more educated opinion than mine, click here for an informed article about the validity of the Council of Europe and World Heritage declarations on the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route - http://pilgrim.peterrobins.co.uk/santiago/heritage.html  

I must add a disclaimer before I even start on this post!

Disclaimer: 

  • I LOVE THE CAMINO. 
  • I HAVE WALKED TO SANTIAGO 9 TIMES IN 14 YEARS.
  • I HAVE HELD UMPTEEN PRACTICAL WORKSHOPS TO HELP PEOPLE PLANNING TO WALK THE CAMINO ROUTES. 
  • I HAVE WRITTEN 3 BOOKS ON THE PRACTICAL ASPECTS OF THE CAMINO.
  • I FORMED A COMPANY IN 2010 TO TAKE SMALL GROUPS OF LIKE-MINDED PEOPLE ON THE CAMINO. 
  • I ADMIRE AND SUPPORT ANY AND ALL WORK DONE TO PRESERVE AND PROTECT THE CAMINO.
  • WHETHER I AM OF THE OPINION THAT ANY OF THE TRAILS IN EUROPE IDENTIFIED FOR WORLD HERITAGE STATUS ARE ‘AUTHENTIC’ OR NOT, I ACCEPT THAT THE ‘CAMINO’ AS KNOW IT IS THE ONLY ‘CAMINO’ WE’VE GOT, AND AS A WORLD HERITAGE SITE IT MUST BE PROTECTED AND PRESERVED.  

Now - back to the Manifesto.

DEFINING THE CAMINO TRAILS, DEFENSE OF CAMINO HERITAGE
 
Defining the Camino trails and defence of the Camino Heritage can be discussed as one heading – in that order.

Many academics have argued that the only routes which can be positively identified as being ‘pilgrimage routes’ to the tomb of Saint James are those in Galicia.  The pilgrimage to the tomb of Saint James was a Galician invention.  It spread to the rest of Spain, then to all of Europe and now it is a global phenomenon.  The only starting place we can be sure of is Coruna and because that route is only 75km pilgrims who walk from there do not qualify for a Compostela.
 
Like a myriad of rivulets and streams flowing into a great lake, the further away from the area surrounding the city of Santiago de Compostela, the more problematic it becomes to identify the many different paths taken by medieval pilgrims, let alone trying to establish ‘one route’ as the only pilgrims ‘Way’. 

(The Camino de Santiago cannot be positively identified in the same way as other World Heritage sites, such as, for instance, the Great Wall of China.)

While the course of the different routes is generally known, very little of them survive in anything approaching their original form.”  (Council of Europe) 

Getting back to FICS and AMIGOS who are the guardians of the Camino.

It must be really frustrating for them when the same findings and proposals are reached after almost every congress, conference, symposium or meeting of the different organizations dealing with the Camino since 1999.  This is not the first time there has been a Manifesto calling for UNESCO to list the Camino de Santiago on the ‘World Heritage in Danger list’. 

Ten years ago the YESA NO campaign mobilised thousands of supporters at rallies to protest against the enlargement of the Yesa dam in Aragon.  http://www.yesano.com/camino_noticias.htm
They applied to have that part of the Camino added to the World Heritage in Danger list. 

At first UNESCO’s response was that the section of the Camino in danger was not the same as that which was covered in the 1993 World Heritage listing.  In the end, UNESCO reported that “a compromise solution put forward for the Yesa Dam was found and agreed upon by ICOMOS after they were assured that part of the original Route, which would be submerged by the heightening of the Dam, would be preserved in a similar way to the section now beneath the concrete runway of the airport of Santiago de Compostela, which has already been accepted as part of the World Heritage property.”

Four years ago, in December 2010, representatives of more than eighty Jacobean and other organizations from various European and South American countries signed a document in Santiago de Compostela, accusing the government of not defending the Camino Frances from multiple threats and attacks, such as the works of the circle of Las Cañas in Logrono, a suburb in Cizur Menor (Pamplona) the destruction of the Hospital de las Tiendas, among many others.  A “Manifesto de Compostela” which has was promoted by the Galician Association of Friends of the Camiño de Santiago, asked UNESCO to include the path in the list of World Heritage in Danger.

El Manifiesto de Compostela, firmado por asociaciones jacobeas, culturales y patrimoniales de varios países, solicita a la UNESCO que el Camino Francés entre a formar parte de la lista de Patrimonio Mundial en Peligro debido a los “continuos atentados” que sufre.”

A:  DEFINING THE CAMINO TRAILS

This was the problem facing the Parliamentary Assembly of the Council of Europe in 1984. They implemented a program of co-operation and exchanges to promote public awareness in order to identify the routes and mark them with a common emblem and co-ordinate the various cultural and tourist activities and the restoration of monuments.

 Peter Robins - writing on the problems with identifying the pilgrimage paths in Spain.

·         The route is largely based on Roman roads; many of the settlements, such as Astorga and León, and much of the infrastructure, such as bridges and actual roadway, predate the pilgrimage, and would have been there whether the pilgrimage had existed or not

·         similarly, because there was an existing major road, many of the later settlements and infrastructure such as travellers' accommodation would have grown up along it too, again whether the pilgrim road to Santiago had existed or not; this is, after all, what happened to Roman roads in other countries, such as Britain

·         likewise, many villages and towns not on "the Route" have monuments that are just as impressive if not more so as some of those on the route

·         this is also the case for buildings on others of "the different pilgrimage routes"; how do they differ from those on "the Route"?

·         the argument is made that the pilgrimage route provided the channel for Romanesque architecture to spread to Spain, yet the earliest Romanesque churches are in Catalonia and have nothing to do with Santiago; conversely, several of the major monuments of the Camino Francés, such as León and Burgos cathedrals, are post-Romanesque, and others are of a distinctly Spanish baroque style.

·         in addition, any route/road changes over time; this means it is not a fixed 'heritage site'.
http://pilgrim.peterrobins.co.uk/santiago/heritage.html 

The major basis for the routes in Frances and Spain was the ‘Liber Sancti Jacobi which is now thought to have been written either for Duke William, Count of Poitiers, or King Alfonso, and not as a general guide describing any specific pilgrimage roads leading to Spain. 

Too many academic papers have been written on the so called Codex Calixtinus to mention here but suffice it to say that there is overwhelming evidence that the book does not describe four routes in France, and that there were no dedicated Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage routes in many other countries of Europe either.  Researchers agree that there were roads, paths and tracks followed by travellers, traders and armies etc that were also used by pilgrims to shrines all over Europe as well as to Santiago de Compostela.   

“The terms pilgrim "roads" or "routes” were invented by Romance philologists and art historians, whose contested or amended theories should not dominate our conceptions nowadays. In a wider historical context, the expression "pilgrim road" may denote the routes preferred by pilgrims. Again, the further one gets away from Spain and France, the vaguer the notion of specific routes for Santiago pilgrims becomes.”  Klaus Berbers - Federal Republic of Germany – 1988 Bamberg Congress. 

 “Of course, in this region, there is a great deal of evidence of the cult of Saint James, whether in the form of churches or altars, statues, crosses, place names or roads. However, these are evidence of the cult of Saint James in general rather than evidence of the pilgrimage routes.  The term Santiago pilgrim route properly applies only to those mediaeval or modern routes closely associated in function with the cult of Saint James or the Santiago pilgrimage. In the upper Rhineland, at least, such routes do not exist.  That is why we remain sceptical about the Council of Europe project entitled ‘Santiago de Compostela European cultural route’. It is unreasonable to interpret any evidence of the cult of Saint James as proof of the existence of a pilgrimage route.” H.P. Schneider – Switzerland – 1988 Bamberg Congress 

Throughout the discussions at the 1988 Bamberg Congress about identifying a ‘Santiago de Compostela European Cultural Route’ many representatives of the different countries raised doubts about the existence of such routes in Europe. 

What about the confraternities, symbols of Saint James and churches named for him? 

“There were 12 confraternities of Saint James in the upper Rhineland.  According to the available information, the confraternities of Saint James  ….  were associations organised for the purpose of prayer for the souls of the dead. In short, they were not confraternities of Santiago pilgrims for Santiago pilgrims. We must therefore conclude that - at least as far as the upper Rhineland is concerned - the confraternities of Saint James were of no importance to the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela.”   

“The fact that a hospital or hospice was dedicated to a particular saint does not tell us anything about its function, which can only be elucidated by the written sources for each particular case. The hospices, including those dedicated to Saint James, took in not only Santiago pilgrims but all other pilgrims and all poor travellers.”  

 “Thanks to the Guide, [Liber Sancti Jacobi] the idea became widespread that there were four routes to go to Compostela.  There is no evidence that any of the four routes or their extensions ever saw more pilgrim traffic than any others…. history has so far found no evidence of large departures for Compostela from these towns [Tours, Le Puy, and Vezelay, Arles].  The currently used Le Puy route, the GR65, is an invention of the 1970s that the creators admitted was not based on historical evidence - largely because there is no historical evidence.” Peter Robbins

 


The current evolution of the European Institute of Cultural Routes into a technical tourist agency with everything aimed at the profit of the Greater Region centred on Luxembourg demonstrates this. Without the slightest attempt at authenticity, new maps have been produced. They trace back arbitrarily four routes in France into eight or nine European routes. The illusory nature of the maps drawn for Aquitaine by Alexandre Nicolaî and for France by Elie Lambert is even more so for Europe.   The Council of Europe recognises the symbolic character of these routes by making them intangible "Cultural Routes" whilst at the same time encouraging publication of guides and maps and actions on the ground of no serious historical validity. Those historians who at the time argued for a serious methodology in the research into routes were not listened to.Fondation David Parou – France 

B:  MANIFESTO - DEFENSE OF CAMINO HERITAGE 

The Santiago de Compostela Declaration - 1987 

·         to identify the Santiago de Compostela pilgrim routes throughout Europe
·         to signpost the routes with a common emblem; and
·         to launch an extensive programmof European co-operation through the restoration and rehabilitation of the architectural and natural heritage lying in the vicinity of the routes and the organisation of cultural activities and exchanges between the towns and regions situated along them.  

Preserving the outstanding universal value granted to the Route of Santiago implies the comprehensive protection of all the sites’ values –both tangible and intangible. The essence of cultural routes lies on the “interrelationship” of all their elements, which should not be considered separately. Preserving the values protected following Operational Guidelines criteria implies protecting the “communication system” represented by the Route of Santiago.”  WHC 1933 [I changed the words to bold] 

Buffer zones:  “The Route of Santiago WHC Nomination Documentation (UNESCO, 1993) indicates that the historical complex protected includes 30 meters to each side of the route and all the medieval areas of cities and towns crossed by it. Suarez-Inclan (2000) underlines that this protection was established with a temporal character and that final delimitation should be determined by planning instruments. Buffer zone should be expressly indicated on a revised version of the UNESCO dossier of the Route of Santiago.” 

C:  MANIFESTO - ON THE MATTER OF HISTORIC LEGAL DESIGNATION 

It is essential we ensure the Jacobean Itineraries with the most historical claims as pilgrimage ways receive proper legal designations and protection.  

As most academics and researchers have said, how does one decide which itinerary has the strongest historical claim to being a Santiago de Compostela route?  Neither the presence of a church or hospice dedicated to Santiago, nor a scallop shell on a bridge, nor a confraternity of Saint James in the area proves that it was on a traditional pilgrimage route or that it was the only route to Santiago. 

When the COE identified the present route of the Camino de Santiago, many villages claiming a Santiago pilgrimage connection were bypassed.  Those on the route have benefitted from what has been described as ‘arbitrary choices made without historical foundations” whilst others were excluded.   

This proposal can only be fair if the recognition of Jacobean itineraries is extended to all of those with claims to a historical Santiago pilgrimage connection, such as the Invierno Route (Winter Route) and the claim for a new route that will bypass Miraz and Arzua. 

D:  MANIFESTO: On the matter of Way-marking 

Although the yellow arrow is the icon of the Jacobean pilgrimage in all the world, a chaos of markings and signs litter the pathways on the Way of St. James.

We propose:  

1.      Unifying the way-marking of the Camino de Santiago throughout Europe based on the European Council guidelines. Wherever possible the yellow arrow will be used.  

Item 2 of the Santiago de Compostela Declaration is: 

 2.  establish a system of signposting for the principal points on the itinerary, using the emblem suggested by the Council of Europe 

Clearly the UNESCO emblem is only meant to be used on principle points and not on all the different routes through Europe to Santiago but the shell symbol and the yellow and blue colours were the most recognizable Jacobean symbols on all of the Santiago routes I've walked on in Spain, France, Switzerland and even Italy.

The yellow arrow, first painted as directional markers on the routes in Spain, was the work of Don Elias Valina Sampedro. 
 
If this was adopted by UNESCO as the official Camino de Santiago route-mark symbol then perhaps it should be standard for all the World Heritage routes.  Only certain sections of routes in other countries have WH status.   


2.      Creation of specific rules or laws to determine who is authorized to erect way marks; with fines or other sanctions for those who “freelance.”
3.      We propose the authorized way-markers be the same people who have always maintained the Way: Associations, confraternities and Jacobean entities without profit motives. 
 
I see what they are saying here but I can’t imagine restricting the painting of way-marks or directional symbols by law.  When I walked the Via Francigena in 2006, way-marks were few and far between.  Out of the way hotels and Casas had their own signs and way-marks directing tourists (and/or pilgrims) to their establishments.  Fining people (if they can prove that it was them) or applying other ‘sanctions’ seems a bit extreme!

Tuesday, June 10, 2014

Hospital D'Orbigo - 9th June

Last night we invited Jurgen, a pilgrim from Hamburg who is also staying at the Hostal Central, to join our table at dinner. During the conversation he told us that he walked to La Virgin del Camino then later on got a bus back to Leon. He spent some time there and was going to wait for one of the afternoon buses but decided to take a taxi instead. (He was also overcharged but queried it and the taxi driver relented and charged him €20)
"But there are no buses during the day on a Sunday", I said, fresh and confident from my internet search of the ALSA website.  "There were many buses," he said, "many going both ways".
We had a lovely meal and found we'd met many of the same people on the way. We discussed them as though they were old mutual friends. There is also the "Camino grape-vine and word goes up and down about different pilgrims. I have met pilgrims who have said, "so, you are the lady who broke her arm. We heard about you last week. " Then someone says, "Pete has had to go ahead - he hurt his leg and had to rest a couple of days so now he is playing catch-up".
Back in the room I checked the ALSA website for the bus time table today and guess what? On Monday there are only evening buses from 20h30 onwards.  On Tuesday they start from 6am and run almost hourly.
I wanted to post another box to Santiago and found that the Correos was in a road parallel to the main road. I posted a copy of my book to Isa and a box of stuff to Santiago. Then I decided to wait at tbe bus stop across the road for Tuesday's 9h40 bus to Hospital.

Hallelujah - the bus was on time, not completo, I bought a ticket on the bus for €1.90 and 20 min later I was deposited on the main road outside Hospital D'Orbigo.  It took about 10 min to walk to the famous bridge and once on it, I saw the Albergue La Encina in a side road about halfway along the bridge. As I walked along the bridge I recognized Pete, striding along the cobblestone bridge. He wasn't staying here but just passing through.
It was too early to check in so I took a walk into the old part of the village, had a drink at the Hostal bar at the start of the bridge and met up with a few pilgrims I've seen regularly along the way.  Dan asked if he could take a photograph of me and I asked if I should smile or look sad? "We haven't seen you without a smile" said his wife, Esther. So I smiled and he took a photo of me and my broken arm.
I went back to La Encina and could check in.  This is the most spacious room I've had to date, large enough to fit 4 beds if needed.
Kathy arrived at 2pm. The lady who checked her in thought she was checking in with a man who had arrived with her at the same time. When I told Kathy she said, "Oh NO, gracias, no hombre!" I suggested to the woman that perhaps she had found Kathy a man and should offer them a matrimonial bed!
It had been a long walk for her, 30km according to her GPS watch.  Much too far for our amaWalkers pilgrims to walk. There are 2 routes to here,  one mostly alongside the road and the other (longer route) with less next-to-the-road walking. We might have to let them decide which they prefer to do.
After a rest we walked accross the long bridge to see if there was another way out for me in the moring. I'm going to have to roll the pink bag along the stony bridge and onto the main road (about 15min) to town to reach the bus stop. There are 4 storks nests on the church tower, all with large babies in them. We watched as a stork swooped over the river, probably looking for frogs.
We had drinks at the Hostal overlooking the bridge and we visited the two albergues in town (the parochial albergue still has the waterfall and forest mural on the wall in the courtyard that I first saw in 2002) and the San Miguel albergue where I met Marcelo the hospitalero from Brazil.
Cathy bought a few provisions at the tienda and we went back to Albergue Encina for a pilgrim menu.  I couldnt get the blind to come down in my room so had bright daylight until after 10pm. I should've kept the eye masks that Qatar airline gave us.

Monday, May 26, 2014

Bus and taxi pilgrim - Navarette to Najera

I thought I wouldn't sleep well but the pillows here are long and mine went right across the double bed so I could rest my arm on it next to my head whichever way I turned.
It takes twice as long to shower and dress and brushing teeth is a mission.
At 7.45 Kathy took the pink bag dowstairs and left for her walk to Najera.  The young man behind the desk gave me a Cola Cao and rang for a taxi to collect me at 10am.   The buses don't come to Navarette but one can walk a couple of km to the highway and get one there.
The taxi took me straight to the Hostal Hispano.  It is opposite the main park and I remembered having lunch in the Restaurant Hispano with Marion and Annelise in 2007. We also went back there with Finn on our car trip back to Pamplona.
Senor Alonso was most concerned about my arm and allowed me into my room earlier than normal check in time.  He gave me a map and marked on it where the bus stop, tourist office and clinic was.

I crossed the river and found that the tourist office was closed on Mondays.  I found the bus terminus and took a photo of the bus time table on the wall.  I bumped into the two pilgrims from Cape Town and spent some time chatting to them.
I went back tobthe hostal and Senor's daughter and new baby were visiting so I was introduced and had to recount the accident.  He went off duty and Anna, his other daughter arrived to do a shift at the desk.  I asked her if they ciuld scan or fax the doctor's reports for me but their printer, fax macine was out of order.
Kathy arrived and helped carrying the pink bag to our rooms. Anna suggested I try the library or post office to do the fax for me.  After 20 minutes in the post office they were unable to fax the documents to TIC.
Anna told me about a photocopy place around the corner so Kathy and I found that place and I was able to email the docs to my Mweb address.  Back at the hostal i sent them to TIC.
We ate in the room again and I had an early night.

Friday, October 26, 2012

CAMINO LINGO



In 2001 I took a 6 week Spanish course at our local University in preparation for my first Camino. 

We learned to count to 100, say the days of the week and months of the year, all the colours, name all the rooms in a house, the buildings in a town, to introduce ourselves to Senor Gonzalez and to make appointments, shop, cook and entertain in Spanish.  We learned to say, "My hamster is behind the sofa" and "the bird is on the window sill".

I typed out five pages of verbs and their conjugations - I, You (singular), He, she, You (formal), We, You (plural) and They.  We learned about common verbs, AR verbs that change, ER verbs, IR verbs, O-UE verbs, E-IE verbs, IR verbs E-I.  Accompanying these are pages and pages of present tense verbs, stem-changing verbs etc etc e

It makes my head spin just to look at all the pages on Grammatical structures, Interrogative sentences, rules on gender, diphthongs, cognates and so on. 
No wonder I didn't remember much Spanish when I finally got to Spain.  There I learned to ask for a coffee and the toilet and to say, "Beun Camino" to all passing pilgrims.

In 2006, in preparation for my walk on the Via Francigena in Italy, I did a 6 week Italian course at the University.  I wasn't very good at it and the strange thing was that although it wasn't a difficult course, all the long forgotten Spanish words kept popping out!  Instead of saying Grazie, I was saying Gracias! 

In between walks in Spain I've tried online lessons, bought Spanish Words and Phrases books as well as CDs which I listen to in the car.  Most of them are aimed at tourists and have lots of words and phrases that a Camino pilgrim will never need. 

Last year I started taking small groups of pilgrims on the Camino and decided that I should take Spanish classes again.  I contacted my friend and Spanish teacher Reinette Novoa and after a couple of weeks of useful verbs, adjectives and grammar rules I told her that all I really wanted was to learn words and phrases applicable to walking the Camino.  I didn't want to be able to ask where to launder my suit or where to take my car for a service!  She suggested I write out in English the words and phrases I needed and she would provide the Spanish and pronunciation.  It worked like a charm!  I learned more in two weeks than I'd learned in all those weeks of lessons and listening to CDs!.

I then had the idea that she and I use these lists and collaborate on writing an English-Spanish Words and Phrases book for pilgrims on the Camino.  We decided to call it CAMINO LINGO - which means that although it is not a perfect English-Spanish book, it is pefect for the Camino pilgrim!

 In the Introduction we started with the polite words one would need in Spain, like hello, thank you and please - hola, gracias, por favor etc.  Then a few not-so-polite words like 'bugger off', 'shut up' and 'F#@* off'!    The five chapters follow a pilgrim on the Camino from packing the backpack, flying to Spain, arriving and asking questions, using bus or train to get to the start, checking into a hotel or albergue, washing clothes, eating, shopping, walking the trail, sightseeing, making friends and arriving in Santiago.  There is a chapter on health and medical as well as cycling words, money, banks and  post office.  Five appendices offer basic pronunciation, a menu reader, and an extensive English-Spanish dictionary with over 650 words and phrases aimed at Camino pilgrims.

My friend Sandi Beukes, who did the drawings for YOUR CAMINO, offered to do the illustrations for CAMINO LINGO as well and her delightfully quirky drawings bring the chapters to life. 

In text boxes Reinette gives advice to the pilgrim.

 Reinette says:
If you don’t have sufficient words to ask for something - smile, make a questioning face and use hand signals. You can also show Spanish people the words and phrases in this book.
 
Blisters    las ampollas  ahm-poh-yas
(Point to your blisters!)

Pilgrimage Publications have agreed to publish the book in print and eBook form and I know that it is going to be a great help to English speaking pilgrims on the Camino. 
CAMINO LINGO should be available before Christmas.

Wednesday, July 25, 2012

EXPECTATIONS

If the Camino doesn’t live up to your expectations, it’s your fault – not the Camino.
The Camino is what it is, what it always has been. 
The Camino is unchanging – only pilgrims change. 
The Camino doesn’t belong to you.
Not everyone will have the same experience on the Camino. 
Don’t try to walk someone else’s Camino.
Walk your own Camino.
“If you want to make it to Santiago, the first heavy thing you must leave behind is your expectations."

 Some people walk or cycle a Camino purely for the challenge of doing so.  They are rarely disappointed and get exactly what they wanted out of the experience – a great hike across scenic landscapes with reasonable accommodations and friendly fellow hikers - no more and no less.  When they return home they cross it off their bucket list and start planning their next adventure.  “I don’t know what all the hype is about,” said a returning pilgrim.  “I’ve had better holidays in Tuscany.”

Some people do a Camino because it is the fashionable thing to do – all their friends have done it or are planning to do it and they don’t want to feel left out.  They buy all the right gear and do a bit of research and then set off for France, Spain or Portugal to start the Camino.  The first few days are a shock.  This is no gentle meander from one charming village to the next.  The paths are muddy or rocky; villages are decrepit, monuments in ruin. The locals are un-sophisticated and, they don’t speak English!   After a week or two they decide that this is not for them and they return home.  One such ‘pilgrim’ wrote, “I had a stiff G&T and decided that if I ever got the urge to try it again I would lie down on my bed until the feeling passed!”

Some people plan a Camino with a spouse or with a friend or two, or even a group.  They get on well together and are excited at the prospect of sharing this journey.  Hiking together for weeks can bring out tensions and different expectations in the group.  “I am a fast walker and the others couldn’t keep up.”   “I expected to keep walking but he couldn’t go any further so I ended up twiddling my thumbs every afternoon.”  “I wanted to sleep in the albergues but she wanted to sleep in hotels. She also wanted to eat in restaurants and I couldn’t afford to do that every night.”  These different expectations are the things that can lead to a breakdown in friendships and relationships on the Camino. 

Some people, who have hiked other long-distance hiking trails around the world, might be disappointed to find that the Camino isn’t a wilderness trail (like the Appalachian Trail in the US).  They bemoan the fact that there are always signs of civilisation, trains, electricity pylons, highways in the distance, lots of villages and towns, and far more people on the trails than they expected.  Some of the Camino routes have lots of road walking and this too is a shock to the person who thought he would be hiking mostly on cross-country trails.

Some people, many at cross-roads in their lives, do a Camino hoping to ‘find myself’.  They hope that by walking or cycling the Camino they will find answers to the many uncertainties in their life; perhaps the loss of a job, the break-down of a relationship, or a mid-life crisis.  Some will have an epiphany on the road and return home full of new found vigour and ideas, but others go home more confused than ever. The Camino failed to provide the answers and solutions they were looking for.

Some people walk for religious reasons.  Many, hoping to emulate the pilgrims of old and walk in faith and piety in order to earn a reward at the end of the journey (usually forgiveness of sins), are disappointed and disillusioned by the commercial aspects of the Camino.  They find closed churches, queues of tourists outside cathedrals (which charge them to enter) and an array of cheap Camino souvenirs in every village.  They feel let down because the Camino doesn’t meet their expectations. “Very little is real, authentic or genuine” said a pilgrim. 

Some people might start off doing a Camino as a nice long distance walk, with no expectations of having a spiritual or meaningful experience.  When they reach Santiago they say, “That was a great walk, but I don’t think I’ll want to do it again.  There are lots of other places I want to visit.”  A few weeks, months or even a year later, they are dreaming about the Camino and feel a ‘call’ to go back.  They join their local confraternity and start to plan their next Camino.

Some people, although eager to experience what others describe as an intensely spirituality and life-changing experience, just don’t feel it.  “I wanted to feel the magic and euphoria that so many pilgrims have described,” commented a pilgrim at a workshop, “but it just didn’t happen for me.  It was a wonderful walk and I loved being with the other pilgrims, but I really didn’t find it life-changing at all.” 

Some people have high expectations and everything about the Camino is a disappointment.  One blogger was explicit in his condemnation.  "Roncesvalles - had a typically bad Spanish lunch; Burgos cathedral - I’ve seen hundreds of cathedrals in my life, but this one in particular disgusted me; it was a Terrible, Horrible, No Good, Very Bad Day. We started the day in Peregrino Purgatory; there are many structural and systemic reasons that Spain is one worst countries in the Financial Crisis, including economic, legal, and behavioural; watched as a busload of Japanese tourists (who were dropped off to hike the last kilometre up to the Iron Cross) crowd out the true pilgrims. Unfortunately El Camino de Santiago is a pre-packaged tour masquerading as something else. "

Some people have pre-conceived ideas about doing the Camino in an ‘authentic’ way [which presumably means in the way of the medieval, mendicant, penitential pilgrim.  They develop strong opinions about all the other pilgrims they meet on the road.  To be ‘authentic’ they should walk alone, walk very long distances, carry a heavy pack, only sleep in pilgrim shelters, not eat in restaurants, not do ‘touristy’ things, attend mass as often as possible and never take transport.  They are disappointed that there aren’t more like them on the Camino and post disapproving comments on blogs and forums.  Pilgrims are ‘cheats’ they say, undeserving of any rewards including the Compostela certificate when they reach Santiago.  This view of authenticity only applies to pilgrims walking to Santiago (not the millions of pilgrims to Fatima, Lourdes, Rome or the Holy Land). These ‘authentic’ pilgrims can have Gortex shoes, wicking hiking gear, carry a credit card, cell phone, send emails home and post on their blogs – and the criteria of authenticity only applies to walking one way (they don’t have to walk back home like the medieval pilgrims did.)

Some people have an unexpected, life-changing experience on the Camino, so much so that they say that it was their destiny to do the pilgrimage.  Many return home, sell up everything and move to Spain or France, setting up a pilgrim shelter on one of the routes.   One pilgrim left her husband and returned to Spain, married a local and now runs a tour business taking groups of pilgrims on the Camino.  Another walked the Camino when she was retrenched from a lucrative job. She returned to her home country, wrote a book and incorporated the Camino into her life by setting up a Camino website to promote it, made a film about the Camino and gives motivational talks.

Some people love doing the Camino so much that they return time and time again, either doing the same route or trying different routes. Each time they say, "Ok. I've done it again, now I must try something different." But, the call of the Camino is too strong, and within a year or two they are back on the Camino trails, and mostly they can’t tell you why!


'The journey is never over. Only travellers come to an end. The end of one journey is simply the start of another. You have to see what you missed the first time, see again what you already saw, see in springtime what you saw in summer, in daylight what you saw at night, see the sun shining where you saw the rain falling, see the crops growing, the fruit ripen, the stone which has moved, the shadow that was not there before. You have to go back to the footsteps already taken, to go over them again or add fresh ones alongside them. You have to start the journey anew. Always.  The traveller sets out once more."  Jose Saramago