Monday, January 09, 2012

Walking in Winter

2011/2012:  December and January   http://www.moldaviteman.blogspot.com/
 
2011: Walking in December and January  http://elcaminoayearlater.wordpress.com/2011/11/
 
2011:  Walking the Camino in reverse, from Samtiago, in February .. brrrrrrrrr......
 
2011:  Startin in St Jean on 11 March. 
 
 
Follow a blog of a 70 year old woman living in France who has walked the camino 5 times in winter and is planning to walk again in 2010.    http://mscamino.blogspot.com/
 
And this up-to-date photo journal of walking in January
 
 
You can see videos of old weather forecasts for each month of the year here:




(His and hers winter packing list at the end of the post)

April 2009:  We walked in the Route Napoleon in early April this year.  We got up to the Cruceiro turn off but the snow was too heavy.  We turned around on the advice of a shepherd bringing two 2 American pilgrims safely off the mountain as well as his sheep. The American's had started out too late the previous day and were caught out in the storm. Thankfully they had the gear to cope with an overnight on the mountain but were still pretty shaken.
We turned and descended back down to the valley on the Arneguy rd. So we ended up trudging up the valley route in rain/sleet/snow after all which was..... 'character building'!
I must say I have nothing but the fondest memories of Roncevalles and arriving there safe and sound felt like paradise.
Give it a bash but take on board any local advice. If the weather is tricky try to pair up with another pilgrim in SJPP so you can make sure that you have both 'checked in' on the other side.
..............................................................................
So you want to walk a camino in Spain during the winter months.  There is frost and snow as early as October in some places.  Spring doesn't really start in the high places until around April/May so I have included October to April in this post.

It can be cold from late October with snow in the mountains. But it can also be wintery in April and early May. 

December and January are the real bottom-out months on ALL the Caminos. Nothing is open, and there are NO fellow pilgrims to be seen some days... the Via de la Plata even more so. I´m sure you´d be safe enough, but you´d be quite lonesome! And wet. It RAINS down in Caceres all through winter. Reb (Moratinos)

Is it always like that in winter?

Will there be snow and blizzards?
Will the pilgrim refuges be open?
Will I be able to follow the paths?
Is it safe?

The answers depends on which camino route you choose to walk, which month you choose to walk, and whether you will be walking alone.
Some pilgrims report bracing, clear skies in December but freezing, snow storms in April.  If you are from a cold climate and are used to cold winters you probably will cope with walking in winter. People from tropical or sub-tropical climates who never see snow might have a miserable time walking in the cold.

Other conditions you might have to contend with:
  • Shorter walking days as sunrise will be at about 8am and sunset at 18h00.
  • If it snows, many of the markers and yellow arrows will be covered.
  • You might have to walk on the roads which can be dangerous.
  • Some of the albergues will be closed and many that remain open do not have heating.
  • You will need warmer clothing (heavier) and more clothing to keep warm - larger backpack.
  • You will need a winter sleeping bag and thermal underwear.
  • There will be fewer pilgrims on the trails which could be a good thing on some routes, but risky on others. 
  • Many little cafes, bars and shops will be closed so you will need to carry more food than one does in summer.
  • Many of the usual mountain scenes can be clouded in fogs and mist.
So - Which Camino Route?
There are at least 15 official camino routes and variants in Spain. Some in the north will experience more severe winter conditions than those in the south.  Some are quiet routes even in summer.

OCTOBER TO APRIL - WINTER WALKING INFO

October 2008:
This link is to a blog on the Via De La Plata at the end of October 2008 where the pilgrim was considering giving up due to the cold, wind, rain, hail and snow.
http://haloranch.blogspot.com/2008/10/rain-and-more-rain-and-hail.html

30th October 2008 - news video of wintery weather across Spain:
http://www.rtve.es/mediateca/videos/20081028/varias-comunidades-estan-alerta-por-peligro-nevadas/325712.shtml?s1=noticias&s2=&s3=

November 2008 - O Cebreiro: : 10mins

November/December 2008
Follow a couple of peregrinos as they walk their camino in November/December, wading through snow and blizzards.
http://justinandalezainthailand.blogspot.com/

December 2008:
The State Agency for Meteorology in Spain has reported that so far, this has been the coldest winter of the twenty-first century in Spain and the worst in 15 years. Blizzards, electricty failures, road closures and heavy snows have cut off and isolated many towns and villages. Many albergues, cafes, shops and restaurants have closed.

November/December 2008
One of my most enjoyable experiences of walking the Way - out of season, was to see snow. While snow is not as uncommon in my home of Australia as one would expect, to walk in the snow anywhere is an experience to remember. I had about 4 days of snow during my 5 weeks walking the camino. One day I walked 35Km and 20KM of it was through snow! I was fortunate to have a white Christmas while walking the Way.   http://members.virtualtourist.com/m/tt/44652/

January 2009:  Via de la Plata
I walked from Seville in January and although I had some mornings of freezing fog, which was burned away by the sun mid morning, generally the weather was very good indeed. I never used my rain gear once. You have a number of options from the South - leaving from Granada, or Seville or from Valencia. You will certainly encounter cold conditions on the Via de la Plata in Extremadura but I suspect no major weather until Galicia.

January 2009 - winter photos:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/skunk_4000/sets/72157612522612638/

January 24th - weather alerts:
Depths of over 20 centimetres of snow have been seen in the north of the country. Continuing cold across the country, but no noticeable rainfall and remaining sunny along the Mediterranean coast today. Nine regions of the country remain on alert this morning, and a further fall in temperatures is forecast for today. Depths of 20 centimetres of snow have fallen above 200m in the regions of Asturias, Cantabria and the Basque Country.  22 mountain passes remain closed to traffic this morning. Those who are happy about the snow are the skiers with all the ski stations in the north now open for business.

February: Portugues route
Just completed my trip from Porto to Santiago. A wonderful journey. If you travel the route in winter - be prepared for rain, washed out tracks/paths, and solitude. Also be aware of TRAFFIC - from hair-raising to down right life threatening!

Late February: Via de la Plata
I walked during the winter of 2006 (late February) from Zamora. A lot of snow, even in Zamora city and of course in Padornelo and the A Canda mountains. Absolutely no pilgrims so empty albergues. Different from the albergues on the Camino Frances - all you need is to know where to collect the keys (see a notice on the albergue's door or ask to anyone). My camino was unusual - I had much more snow, rain and cold than normal.

February 2008 - posts on the Forum: http://www.pilgrimage-to-santiago.com/
Many villages in Lugo province are cut off, and children unable to get to school.

5th March 2008.
A friend has sent me photos of Roncesvalles, and parts of the landscape outside Pamplona - thick snow, mist and wet roads with them in padded jackets, woollen hats, scarves and gloves. Brrrrrrrr

24th March 2008:   An Italian attempts to dig out his vehicle with a shovel after it was practically buried in the snow outside the Collegiate of Roncesvalles after heavy snowfall which has fallen for two days on the area. One of the strongest storms of recent years has resulted in snow levels of between 60cm and 1.2m deep
(photos: Javier - pilgrimage-to-santiagio forum)

24 March 2008: 3.22mins video

I finally reached Galicia the day before yesterday and believe you me I had a tough time getting up to O Cebreiro. It´s been the first time in my life that I´ve had to walk in a snow blizzard and I was truly scared. When I got to the albergue there was two feet of snow, it was absolutely beautiful! The weather now is less cold but quite wet, well we´re in Galicia, what can we expect?

Here are a couple of links to reports of snow at the end of March and April last year:

In 2002, 2005, 2007 and 2009 pilgrims died crossing the Pyrenees from St Jean to Roncesvalles in March and April.

From mid-April 2008 until early July 2008, I walked the way of St James. I began in Le-Puy-en-Velay in France, and finished in Santiago de Compostela in Spain, nearly three months later. When I began, there were days when it snowed, and the trees still wore either their winter or spring look, depending on altitude.  When I crossed Cebreiro it was sunny and warm, though 3 days later I saw on the Spanish TV that it was snowing again and Pilgrims walking through the snow, so you never really know and you will need to be prepared.
(Photo by Kiwi-Nomad: chemincamino08.blogspot.com/ )

April 2008:
I wanted to set off from Pamplona on Monday and could not due to endless heavy rain. I ended up staying another night at my friends. I even got soaked just walking around Pamplona. Left yesterday and got to Puente la Reina, and it seems much of the Camino had been closed by the police with alternative diversions. The mud and slurry is just horrendous. Just when it seems it can not get worse it does! Never mind, it is part of the fun, I guess? Leaving Puente today was the worst, just unbelievable. Holding onto fences, having a stick helps. It took me over an hour and a half to get to Maneru which is only 5km.
Very tired but got here from Villamayor, around 30km. Weather better but it was snowing last night. When I got to Los Arcos I read with sadness in a newspaper in a bar about the British Pilgrim. I just about worked out the gist of it. It brought home to me how it is a serious walk in that area especially in poor weather conditions. Please take good wet weather gear and use two walking poles in the mud!

April: : Forced to my knees on the Camino
After all my reading and research nothing could have prepared me for the realities of a bitterly cold start to my Camino. I was so determined to avoid the summer heat that I ended up walking in a snow blizzard. I started from Pamplona in the early hours of April 8th 2005. Snow was already beginning to fall as I left town and in my ignorance of what lay ahead I thought ‘This is great, I have never walked in the snow’. It snowed all day and by the time I reached the foothills of Sierra del Perdón I was trudging knee deep in snow. Prepared for much warmer weather I wore a T-shirt, long sleeved and short sleeved fleece and a short raincoat and running shoes – nothing else except a plastic poncho covering my backpack and myself! There were few walkers on the road that day and being on my own I tried to stay in the middle of a group, two ahead of me and four Italians behind me. At times I was terrified of getting lost – with snow falling fast, the path repeatedly disappeared and all the yellow signs were covered. At the top the wind was blowing so hard that the wind turbines were spinning like the propellers of a Harvard aeroplane. This is when my first disaster struck! With the force of the wind my rain poncho split clean down the middle so I had to struggle to keep myself and my backpack dry. Utterly miserable I trudged on to the Uterga where I immediately booked into a Refugio. Fortunately it was not full, just an elderly couple who had stayed over from the previous night. They had pushed through over the same mountain in pouring rain and were too exhausted to continue. Little did they know what lay ahead!

Comments from pilgrims:

“ I noticed last year, the biggest problem is the short daylight time combined with the often bad weather conditions. It gives a high risk of falling. Apart from that there are few pilgrims…so if you seek solitude! On account of there being only a short period of time to walk by daylight you cannot always reach the Refugio you like to go to. Not all are open in this time of year.  Galicia is a positive example here. One way or the other you can get a key to your roof over your head. In fact you will be sleeping mostly in Fonda’s (which is more comfortable and warm and you can get decent food etc.). However the costs doing it this way are higher of course."

"When stuff gets wet it is difficult to get it dry in winter and the albergues are often unheated. For example, a few of us stopped to try out the albergue at Hospital - just after the San Roque statue at Alto do Poio - and although it had been left open for pilgrims to use, we decided after twenty minutes that it was too cold to stay in and we ended up in a small B&B in a hamlet a few kilometres further on. The albergue municipal in Sarria was gloriously warm and cheerful, so was the one in Portomarin on Christmas Eve."

I've walked two different Caminos in winter.  The Camino Sanabres was very, very cold, with a lot of snow.
The Camino Portuguese had nice weather. I imagine the Camino ingles would be very wet, the same on the Camino del Norte. If I was you, I would try the Portuguese, or the Camino Frances, but absolutely NOT the Camino Primitivo in winter. The Camino Primitivo (from Oviedo to Lugo) is wonderful. But, do not walk alone in Winter because you will be on your own. Often the path is very far from housing so if you stumble ... No antennas so the phone does not work. (Javier - Madrid, Spain)

"The last time I walked the Camino Frances, I split it into 4 sections. The 3rd section, Fromista-Astorga I walked in November. It was cold - woolly-hat and mittens weather throughout - but exceptionally clear. I was originally thinking of walking further in that week, but gave up as the snow in the mountains was knee-deep. This was unusual so early, but by no means unknown. If the weather is bad, you can use the road rather than the track over the Cruz de Ferro, and from Ponferrada, you could detour on to the Camino de Invierno, a low-level alternative route via Lemos, which should be ready by then."  Peter Robins:

Truth is, anyone who takes the route from Roncesvalles before May is running the risk of slogging through puddles and mud, snow or rain. I did it in April, and had ankle-deep mud to contend with, as well as driving rain. It was misery, but thankfully we had stopped at Larrosoaña on the way up and reserved a room at the same house where the meals are served. (That was one of the finest hot baths ever taken!) Through the rest of my camino I felt miserable several times, but I could look back on that first day and tell myself, "Hey, at least its not THAT bad!" (Rebekah - Moratinos, Spain)

"I recently returned from my "winter" camino. I walked from Pamplona to Sagahun in 12 days. It was an incredible trip - I previously walked from Leon to Santiago in September 2003. Walking in the winter was exactly what I was looking for - the solitude, the people, the weather and other pilgrims I met along the way made it a very memorable trip. I experienced every type of weather imaginable: thick fog in the Alto de Perdon (got a bit lost because I couldn't see a trail maker 5 feet in front of me); a half day of rain leaving Burgos, sun on the meseta, clouds for a few days outside Pamplona, very strong wind after Santo Domingo. I was never really cold - walked with five layers and took them off and put them on as appropriate. I carried a 20 degree sleeping bag so even if there was no heat in the albergue, I stayed fairly toasty. Albergues were for the most part open. I always asked along the way and got pretty good information. I only stayed in hotels two nights. I made sure that I ended up in decent sized towns so I could be sure to get a room for the night.
I really got to experience the warmth of the hospitaleros. I shared a long lunch of lentils and chorizo with the hospitalero in Burgos and experienced the warmth of couples' private hostel in Belorado. Not much of a town but their kindness made up for any lack of atmosphere. The senoras of the tiny town of Hontanas made me an incredible dinner of sopa Castellano, pork loin and fried eggs. In general, there were about 3 to 4 pilgrims per night. I stopped walking on Christmas day. I woke up to about 2 feet of snow on the 26th. I took a train to Leon and it was a white-out all the way. It continued snowing all day and the cathedral covered in snow was amazing. It had not snowed that much in years in Leon, and the Spaniards were enjoying the snow - lots of snowballs, snowmen and cheering when someone's car was pushed out of a snow bank. I walked with the corresponding pages of Linda D's and David G's book. I thoroughly enjoyed reading about the history and art of the camino. I had some amazing luck visiting some churches - heating oil was being delivered in Vianna, I (unfortunately) walked into a funeral in Estrella, got to see the tiny Romanesque octagon church in Torres del Rio (it was being cleaned), and several small churches were open because local folks were preparing the Christmas crèche. I also got to see the cloister of the Romanesque church in Estella - which was pretty amazing. If you ever have considered walking in the "off" season, you'd get an enthusiastic endorsement from me."

NB: Whichever month or route you choose to walk, listen to the locals and take their advice on whether to attempt a particular crossing or route. Take a mobile/cell phone with you - it could save your life.

Article on Winter Walking on the website of the CSJ UK.

Weather: Check the weather here:
The spanish weather webpage, even for little towns, is http://www.inm.es/

Links to Diaries and Blogs:

Photos:

DVD:
"Within the Way Without", features Rob Jorritsma as a Winter pilgrim,

BBC:
Winter can bring harsh weather, particularly in the mountainous areas, and passes are often closed due to snowfall. The shoulder months either side of July and August are good compromises for a fairly quiet trail and generally pleasant weather.

Go Exploring:
In the winter, travel should be undertaken only by those who wish to experience the hardships faced by the early pilgrims during the middle ages. (http://www.goxploring.com/camino/info.htm)

Only the insane will set out on the Camino in winter.

The Meseta: There is an old Castilian saying: "nueve meses de invierno y tres meses de infierno" - "nine months of winter and three months of hell."
A short video on a winter camino 2007/2008:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QQ7oHiEduZY&feature=related

ADVICE FROM OTHER PILGRIMS
Clothing:  (See backpack list for male and female at the end of this post)

Dress in layers
Wear boots instead of walking shoes or trainers.
Clothing designed for directional layering from companies like Buffalo, Paramo or Marmot.
Fleece, silk balaclava, warm hat, thermal underwear - all very light and warm.
Good waterproof gear including gaiters for mud and snow.
Carry an emergency blanket with you. These are lightweight, foil blankets which you can discard once you out of the mountains.
Take a cell phone. If you don't have one, try to walk with people who do.
If you do become lost or snowed in - stay where you are and keep warm. Get into your sleeping bag, wrap yourself in your poncho.

The CSJ recommends that you avoid going alone if you possibly can. Tell people in St Jean what your plans are, arranging for them to call the emergency services if you haven't phoned back from Roncesvalles by an agreed time to report your safe arrival.Sil

Emergencies

112 is the Europe-wide emergency number. It works even if you have no money in a pre-paid mobile phone or even if your supplier has no network. It works 24/7 365 days - and the operators speak many languages. The number for the Guardia Civil in Spain is 062.

Winter Camino: 20 tips

  1. You don’t need a lot of clothes, but the ones you have need to be very functional. (I like ultra fine merino wool, my husband likes hi tech synthetics)
  2. Two full outfits plus jacket, gloves and headband is enough. Use one for day (if you get sweaty there aren’t many people around to be bothered by it) and one for evening after your shower. This minimizes washing – you can wear them for days.
  3. Walking makes you warm, even in the winter.
  4. A travel washing line is invaluable.
  5. After you wring out your washing roll it in a towel to get more moisture out.
  6. Heaters are mostly turned off during the night – get your socks on it as early as possible, and hang your line close to it.
  7. Between Christmas and 6 January lots of places are closed. Don’t count on finding bars open in villages to have a coffee or buy food during the day. More things open up after 7 January.
  8. If you are on a tight budget, plan to arrive in time to hunt for open albergues. There are usually hostals or rooms for rent but they will sharply escalate your expenditure. You may need to walk on to the next town.
  9. However if there is accommodation, there are always plenty of vacancies! We always found a bed.
  10. Newspaper stuffed in your boots will dry them out.
  11. No need for sunglasses.
  12. Learn some basic Spanish. You can go days without finding anyone to speak any English, and there are no other pilgrims to help you out.
  13. The solitude is wonderful, you have it all to yourself.
  14. Chocolate is great.
  15. The hours of darkness are very long, and the evenings are too cold and dark for sightseeing. Take something light to amuse yourself, such as a pack of cards, crossword book, sudoku etc.
  16. The bleak winter landscape is very beautiful.
  17. Change your socks in the middle of the day. Soft, warm, no blisters…lovely!
  18. A good attitude makes it a fantastic adventure.
  19. Walking in snow makes you feel so tough.
  20. A glass of wine never tasted so good.
A winter pilgrim's book:

http://jacana.book.co.za/blog/2009/10/01/wilna-wilkinsons-santiago-de-compostela-experience-the-way-of-stars-and-stones/

Winter Pack lists (Thanks to Maggie and her husband.  If you are walking alone you might have to carry the extra items that they shared).

Hers
Aarn Featherlite 35 litre Freedom backpack
Sleeping bag
Silk long johns and top (for pyjamas and occasional extra warmth), 1 set (NZNature Co brand, bought mail order)
Ultra fine merino wool (Hedrena brand):
- single weight slacks, 2 pairs
- undies, 2 pairs
Ultra fine merino wool (Kathmandu brand):
Long sleeved t-shirts, 2
Bridgedale wool hiking socks, 4 pairs
Anklet stocking sox, 2 pairs
Elastic knee support, 1 (two would have been good)
1 bra
1 small polyester pretty scarf, when I wanted to look nicer some evenings
1 pair earrings, worn all the time
Reading glasses and lightweight case
Sunglasses (not used)
Headlamp
Polar Fleece headband
Sleeveless Polar Fleece shell
Goretex 2 layer jacket
Goretex waterproof caving gloves
Akubra hat
Waterproof breathable overpants
Short gaiters
2 Trekking poles
Shoe horn
Randonnee Proof leather hiking boots
Running shoes (only used in the evening, to give my feet a rest)
In small containers:
- Moisturiser
- Face cleanser
- All purpose detergent
Small toothbrush
Small microfibre towel
Tissues
Cotton buds
1 tiny, thin washcloth
2 nappy (diaper) pins
Sponge bag (drawstring plastic bag to hold bathroom items)
Deodorant
Nurofen
Antihistamine
Vaseline
Saline nose spray
Citravescent
lip salve
tweezers
emery board
notebook and ballpoint pen
Small digital camera

In an inside pocket of my jacket
- emergency money
- one credit card
- info on bank accounts
- credit card cancellation info
- list of credit cards carried
- travel insurance info
- flight info

His

Aarn 35 litre Featherlite Freedom backpack and 2 balance packs
Sleeping bag
Travel pillow
Chargers for Ipod, MP3 player, camera, 3G phone
Device to download photos from camera to Ipod
Adaptor plug
Swiss army knife
Sports watch with alarm, stopwatch, compass
Randonee Proof Leather hiking boots
Running shoes and bag
Running socks
Goretex 2 layer jacket
Specific post-operative pain control and doctor’s explanatory letter
Sleeping pills
Acid stomach medicine
Eye drops
Polar Fleece headband
Goretex waterproof caving gloves
Document carrier with:
- passports
- credencials
- credit cards
- money
- list of flights and accommodation
- pen
Headlight
Glasses and lens cloth
Sunglasses and case
Medium size microfibre towel
Silk handkerchief
Small toothbrush
Razor and replaceable blades
Hi tech clothes:
- 2 pr undies
- 4 pr Coolmax socks
- 2 pr Coolmax sock liners
- 1 pr trousers
- 1 pr shorts
- 2 shirts
Polypropylene undershirt and long johns
Polar fleece sleeveless shell
Waterproof breathable overpants
Short gaiters
Akubra hat
1 Trekking pole

Shared  (he carried 3kg more weight, mostly water, so used balance packs in front)

Collapsible 2.5 litre water bottle
Hotel sewing kit
Twisted elastic travel clothesline
Half a tube of child size toothpaste
Bandaids and Compeeds
Antibiotic cream
Anti-diarrhoea medicine
Anti-cramping medicine
Foam mat
Gel heel inserts in case of heel spurs
Food for the day , usually including chocolate, bread, cheese, wine
2 forks, knives, spoons
John Brierley guide book


Sunday, November 13, 2011

URBAN LEGENDS

There are many legends about James the Greater, and urban-legends (those that developed after the discovery of the saint's tomb in the 9th century).  Most of them show that the story about the Jew Yakhov Ben-Zebedee having evangelised in Spain, being buried in Compostela, and being seen at a battle fighting the Moors, are just that - medieval legends. 

However, there is a saying that 'the path is made by walking'  and knowing the truth about the St James legend will never cancel out the long history of the pilgrimage to a cathedral town named after him, nor will it deter most people from feeling 'called' to walk in the footsteps of the millions that have trodden the paths to Santiago.

But remember, there is another saying, that 'the truth will set you free'. Knowing the truth can set you free to follow the Camino pilgrimage trails your way, as a lover of art and architecture, history, music or cuisine, as a long distance hiker, or just as a nice long holiday. You are not a superstitious   medieval peasant and do not have to follow the Camino in the medieval, penitential tradition if you don't want to!  Today, only Catholics can earn an indulgence for the remission of sins.  If you are a Protestant, you were set free by the first 'protestors' at the start of the Reformation.

El Camino –  urban legends 


       1.      The Jew , Yaakov Ben-Zebedee evangelised in Spain.

The basis for this legend can be found in the late seventh century Latin translation of a Byzantine Greek compendium called the Breviary of the Apostles which asserted - with the words "and Spain" - that James evangelized in Iberia.  When this text was at last critically edited in 1988, it became clear these two little words were a later interpolation by someone (not the original author) who wanted to make the text consistent with then-prevalent beliefs. The words don't even make sense in the context where they appear. (Kate van Liere, Professor of History)


    2.      The story that his decapitated body was carried to Iberia from Jaffa in 6 days, across the Mediterranean,  in a stone boat with no sails, blown across the seas by angels. 

Obviously a legend. No clarrification needed!

3.      The story that he is buried in Santiago Cathedral is a legend.

In France alone, there were three tombs containing the body or body parts of St James. There were nine with heads and numerous others with limbs o other appendages. According to an earlier tradition, the relics of the Apostle were kept in the church of St-Saturnin at Toulouse from the 6th century and his left hand was the prime relic in Reading abbey. There are legends that claim that the body of James the Greater had been taken to Spain minus his head.  John of Wiirtzburg, writing about 1165, says the head remained in Palestine and was regularly shown to pilgrims.

      5.      Bishop Godesalc started a flood of pilgrims to the tomb of St James which created an historical ‘Camino’ to Santiago from Le Puy.

The fact that Bishop Godescalc was the first famous pilgrim to visit Santiago in the Xth century was not not known until 1886 – a thousand years after his visit.  All documents relating to his visit were lost and only rediscovered in 1886.  The Le Puy route is a modern footpath reinvented at the start of the 1970s on a decidedly fragile historical base following a GR hiking trail with places to visited selected subjectively. http://www.saint-jacques.info/anglais/lepuy.htm
6.      The Liber Sancti Jacobi was the first Pilgrim’s Guide to Santiago.

The Liber Sancti Jacobi was never a ‘Rough Guide’ for the literate few to Santiago and was unknown in Europe in the Middle Ages.  Only a few copies were made – the 12th century, 14th, late 15th, early 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries.  These were only read by the clerics and historians who had access to the monastery library. The original Codex Calixtinus is an enormous book which was only re-discovered in 1886.  Until it was stolen 2011 it was kept in the Cathedral at Santiago.  The name Pilgrim Guide was given to it early in this century.

7.    Aimery Picaud was the author of  Book Five of the Liber Sancti Jacobi

Aymery Pi­caud became the ‘author’ of Book Five of the Liber Sancti Jacobi only in the 19th century.  His name appears only twice in the entire Liber Sancti Ja­cobi, both times in the addenda to the five books. The book is a compilation of many different writers.

8.  Millions of pilgrims have been trekking to Santiago in a continuous stream for over a thousand years.

As a European phenomenon, the pilgrimage to Santiago enjoyed only bout 300 years of glorious hey-days from the 10th century - reaching a peak in the 12th and 13th centuries.  There was a sharp decline from the 14th century with about 400 years of extremely lean days (and a brief revival in the 1700’s).   When the relics of the saint were ‘lost’ in 1589 the pilgrims stopped coming in any number and stayed away for almost 400 years.  The dissolution of the monasteries and the abolition or transformation of refuges and hospitals reduced the pilgrim routes of the Christian West and Compostela vanished from the mind of non-Spanish Catholicism.  By the Holy Year of 1867 St James' shrine was all but forgotten and only 44 pilgrims attended mass on his feast day.  The ‘Camino’ as we know it was revived in the late 1970’s and early 1908’s


    9.  Santiago Matamoros was seen at the battle of Clavijo in 844

This was a legend, created in the 12th century

    10.   St James’ Feast Days have always been on 25th July. 

The burial site of St James was discovered on the 25th July, between 813 and 835.   In the early Middle Ages the 30th December was St James’ Feast day, based on the old Hispanic (Mozarabic) rite.  In the 11th century King Alfonso VI abolished the Hispanic rite in favour of the Roman rite and July 25 became the principal feast day.  It was formerly on the 5th August on the Tridentine Rite calendar.
11.  Pope Calixtus II granted a Jubilee (Holy Year) to Compostela in 1122 which was ratified in 1179 by Pope Alexander III as a perpetual Bull by Regis Aeterni.

Santiago historians and academics say that Compostela Holy Years only started in the 15th Century. 

12.  Medieval pilgrims were all poor, foot sloggers who trudged enormous distances to Santiago.
Nobleman and women, Knights, clerics with large retinues, Kings and Queens all travelled to Santiago.  The great majority of pilgrims (outside of Spain) sailed to Galicia rather than make the long, dangerous journey overland. Most of them travelled in the Holy Years. It was possible to travel in comfort if one could afford it. Fit pilgrims often travelled by foot or on horseback and by the 15th century enterprising carters had already started acting as travel agents. In 1595 the Englishman Fynes Moryson paid 17 crowns (probably each at 80 Kreuzer) for a journey from Augsburg to Venice to a carter who provided horses, accommodation and food.   
 
      13.  The Compostela is a ‘get-out-of-jail’ certificate.

The modern Compostela was introduced in the 1950’s though no records of it exist before the 1970’s.  The Compostela is merely a certificate asserting that one has arrived in Santiago after walking the last 100km or cycling the last 200km.  The 'get-out-of-jail’ paper is an Indulgence - often confused with the Compostela - is only available to Catholic pilgrims who visit the tomb of the apostle, make confession, attend mass, recite a prayer (such as the Creed or the Lord's Prayer praying for His Holiness the Pope) in order to earn the indugence.

14.    Pilgrimage has always been viewed as a pious and reverential journey.
 

At first, pilgrims and pilgrimages inspired admiration and even astonishment. After the reformation, the cult of relics (regarded as disgusting and deceiving) and the veneration of saints became non-pc throughout most of Europe.  If, as Luther argued, Christ had died for your sins, no intervention of saints was necessary, so why go on a pilgrimage?  Why leave your homes, your work, your families to bow down before a fragment of a dubious relic? 
Pilgrims were viewed with suspicion.  The religious wars started and many atrocities were recorded by both sides. 
"By the 16th century  a great part of the European population was descending to the level of paupers. The problem of the millions of poor people in the cities and on the roads, countless offences against property, acts of violence by vagabonds and beggars, and bands of robbers or banditism as Fernand Braudel called it, inevitably led the authorities to intervene. In the long run bureaucracy engulfed the pilgrims. What was worse, all parts of the population began to mistrust and despise pilgrims, to the detriment of the custom of pilgrimage. Once again "falsos peregrines" (false pilgrims) made their appearance on the road to Compostela; the unemployed, vagabonds, beggars and those who owed taxes made use of the charitable establishments along the way. Once again the state reacted by bringing out strict laws to prevent its subjects from migrating. " Robert Plotz


ts the journey that is important, not the destination. (This is a Buddhist quote)
     
      This is an original Buddhist quote and would have horrified most Catholic pilgrims in the Middle- Ages whose prime goal was to reach the tomb of the saint in Compostela and earn thet 'get-out-of-jail' card. The Santiago Archdiocese website makes it quite clear that (for good Catholics at least) the journey is not the goal. "The most  important thing here is the Goal, not the Way.  Jacobean Pilgrims do not go on pilgrimage for the sake of the Way. Through the Way they reach the Tomb of Saint James the Great. Thus, the Way is just a means, a road the pilgrim walks along."

The Bible:   Acts 12: 

And he [Herod Agrippa] had James the brother of John put to death with a sword. When he saw that it pleased the Jews, he proceeded to arrest Peter also.

The legend:

The disciples of Yaakov ben-Zebedee took his body to Jaffa (Tel-Avivi) where a stone boat, guarded by angels, awaited them.  The boat, which had no sails, took less than a week to sail to the west coast of Spain and landed at the port of Iria Flavia (near Padron).  They laid his body on a stone which immediately formed into his sarcophagus.  He was buried on a hillside.  The burial site was forgotten for almost 800 years. 
On the 25th July, in the 9th century AD (between 813 and 835) a hermit named Pelayo had a vision of a large bright star surrounded by a circle of smaller stars hovering above a place on a hillside.  He reported his vision to Bishop Theodomir of Iria Flavia who decided to investigate and discovered a tomb containing the body of the Saint and two of his followers Athanasius and Theodore. 
Q:  How did they identify the bodies? 
A:  There was a letter lying near the body.   [Nobody has ever seen this letter which must have been written 800 years earlier so they are not sure what language it was written in but the Bishop was able to read it all the same.]  It said:

' Here lies Santiago, son of Zebedee and Salome, brother of St. John, whom Herod beheaded in Jerusalem : he came by sea borne by his disciples to Iria Flavia of Galicia, and from thence on a car drawn by the oxen of the Lady Lupa, owner of these states, whose oxen would not pass any further.’ 
 Nobody can, or wants to, take Santiago out of Compostela.

“To take St. James the Greater out of those centuries in which faith ran riot and life glowed with fancy, and in which the world prepared itself for an outburst of art and literature and vision beyond aught that antiquity knew, is not only to leave significant movements in history beclouded, but also to lessen the charm of the past, and to lose much of its hope and inspiration”.
Rev. James S. Stone (The Cult of Santiago, 1927)

Note: Some photographs are mine, some are copied from Wiki Commons.

Thursday, November 03, 2011

PILGRIM FOOTPRINTS

Lives of great men all remind us
We can make our lives sublime,
And, departing, leave behind us
Footprints on the sand of time.

I have a confession to make!
I've written another book - about the Camino. 
I keep asking people not to write about their Camino  - unless it has a fresh or unique angle, perhaps about a different route (there are dozens of books written about the Camino Frances), or if it was an unusual journey.  Perhaps they walked with their dog, or with their children.  Maybe they walked as a mendicant in medieval garb - that would make interesting reading.
There are so many books being published about a walk on the Camino Frances that although they can  be inspirational, they have become almost formulaic and could be told in 10 lines.  They have the  same  landscape, same villages, same albergues, same experiences, same food, same pilgrims.  If you have read as many pilgrim books as I have, you'll know what I mean.

I promised myself I wouldn't write a Camino book - about myself.  So I wrote one about someone else!  Its not anyone you'll know because he lived in England in the 12th century and I made up the story about his pilgrimage to Santiago.   

I first had the idea for this book in 2001 when I joined the Confraternity of St James in the UK and bought a little metal scallop shell brooch.  It is a replica of a  15th century souvenir of a pilgrimage to Santiago, made of pewter, which was recovered in the banks of the river Thames near London Bridge.
It features St James, dressed as a pilgrim, against the scallop-shell emblem.  When I first saw the brooch I wondered how on earth such an intrinsically sentimental, valuable pilgrim badge had landed up in the river.  A pilgrim, presumably from England, had made the long and dangerous journey to Spain in the Middle Ages, bringing back this beautiful little souvenir.  He must have valued it greatly and yet it was dug up on the bank of the river.  

At the time I did some research on Santiago artifacts found in the River Thames and was lead to an article in 'Peregrinations' on the website of the Kenyon university. 

"The “core” collection of the Museum of London (finds that do not come from formal archaeological excavation) consists of 1021 medieval badges, of which 739 are pilgrim signs and the rest are secular badges. Of the 739 pilgrim signs, 45% have the Thames as the find spot, with most of the remainder from riverside sites [John Clark; pers. comm.].  

So how did the brooch get into the the river?

"Unfortunately, there are no accounts in contemporary literature that describe pilgrims disposing of their signs in rivers. Assuming that this is deliberate, it is likely that there was no single motivating factor, rather many reasons for doing this. In the archaeological literature pertaining to pilgrim signs, it has been suggested that this was sort of an offering of thanksgiving for a safe return from the dangerous journey [Spencer 1998]."

I am a Romantic so I decided to write  story around the little metal brooch - or rather, around the original pewter Santiago souvenir.  I played around with a few ideas - male pilgrim, female pilgrim?  Or both? English pilgrims? Where from?  Checked the Domesday book for likely villages.  After a few days of searching villages I settled on one in the south of England, not far from London, that has a fantastic page on the village in the middle ages.  It provides descriptions of the dwellings, the number of people, their industries, village life, their clothing, their religion and names of 12th and 13th century people buried in the church-yard of the Holy Trinity Church.   I found a record of my pilgrim's grave on the website and decided to write the story around him.

Yay!  I had a name, I knew where he lived, what his home looked like and what he did.  I invented his family, including deceased grand-parents, a sister who died at a young age, two older sisters, a younger brother and an uncle.  But I couldn't decide what my main protagonist looked like.   One day I was watching a cricket match and decided that my pilgrim looked like Andrew Flintoff! I don't know why Andy Flintoff but he looked so - English - that I decided my pilgrim would look like him. 
I started doing research into the middle-ages, especially the 12th century. I opened up a folder for each letter of the alphabet and started saving articles - everything from Abelard to Witches.  In the meantime in 2002 I walked the Camino Frances from Roncesvalles to Santiago and collected as many leaflets and brochures as I could from every place we visited, posting them home when I'd filled an A5 envelope.  When I got home I had 7 envelopes full of literature - much of it in Spanish.  The next year I spent a small fortune on books. Our libraries didn't have much on the Camino, there wasn't much on the Internet either 10 years ago, but I could buy books. I bought books on pilgrimage, medieval Europe, on the History of London, a gazetteer on French towns, historical books on the Santiago pilgrimage and Confraternity papers from the Confraternity of St James and the CD Pilgrims & Pilgrimage - Journey, Spirituality and Daily Life through the Centuries. This is an Interactive CD showing the importance of pilgrimage in the Middle Ages and beyond through word and image.  

By the end of 2003 I knew my characters intimately and I had a synopsis of the full plot of the story. The crux of the story starts with a mystery - a question in a recurring dream. My characters go on a penitential pilgrimage to Santiago from April to August in 1178. They ride to Dover, get a boat across the channel and ride to Paris. From there they ride to Santiago and back. In between are plots and sub-plots, Knights, highwaymen, thieves, murderers, a forbidden love affair, a poisonous night that changes their lives forever. The ending provides the answer to the dream. 

In 2004 I visited London and made an appointment with John Clark, curator of the medieval gallery in the Museum of London. He showed me a tray of Santiago souvenirs and other pilgrimage artifacts. I also got to see the original pewter brooch which was the inspiration for my story. I felt as though I'd owned that souvenir!
In June and July that year I walked from Paris to Roncesvalles, in the footsteps of my characters. They were with me all the way and I tried to see things through eyes - no mean feat when half of the monuments, churches, bridges, castles and so forth described in 'The Pilgrim's Guide to Santiago de Compostela" are no longer there! But it was a wonderful experience and once again I sent home bundles of envelopes filled with leaflets, brochures and booklets on the places along the way.  

In 2005 I finished the first draft and handed it over to my Creative Writing teacher (who also happened to be one of the only South African literary agents listed in the Writers and Artists Handbook).  After two days she called.  "Syl - I'm not going to read your manuscript, " she said.  "You have written your story in the first person and it is very restricting.  I'm suggesting you re-write it in the third person so that all the characters can be fleshed out. Then you can bring it back to me and we'll see what we can do with it."

AAAARGHHHH!!!!  I was devastated.  Crushed. Three years of work and I had to re-write it all!  By then I was busy with other things.  I was planning to walk the Via Francigena.  I filed the manuscript away.  I walked the VF in 2006. The next year I walked the Camino Frances again.  In 2009 I walked the Aragones route, and the Camino Ingles, and worked as a hospitalero in Corcubion. 

Later that year Francis became ill and sadly passed away.  I'd lost a friend, a tutor and a Literary Agent. I decided to haul out the manuscript again and started working on it.  Its not that easy to change a story from the first person to the third person.  "I" becomes "he" - "we" becomes 'they".  My character did a lot of thinking and "I thought" had to become "He thought". 

In 2010 I started writing 'Your Camino" - a planning guide for people wanting to walk or ride a Camino route in France and Spain. It is a 330-page encyclopedia of information and it has been published by Pilgrimage Publications in France.   In between two more walks in Spain, I have spent most of this year rewriting "Pilgrim Footprints". I have sent off proposals to agents and publishers, have had two rejections, but am waiting to hear from the others.  Book publishing has changed a lot in 10 years and if I don't find a publisher, I may consider self-publishing or making it available as an eBook.  
Watch this space!

Saturday, October 08, 2011

YOUR CAMINO - available as a print book, ebook and Kindle

YOUR CAMINO  on foot,


bicycle








or horseback
in France 


and Spain





(Illustrations in the book by Sandi Beukes)

The Lightfoot Guide - YOUR CAMINO on foot, bicycle or horseback in France and Spain is available online from:
Pilgrimage Publications  €17.99 (The publishers of the book)
Amazon.com $22.99  -  Kindle €11.99
Amazon.co.uk £15.99  - Kindle - £8
Amazon.de €20.99  -  Kindle €9.99
Barnes & Noble $22.99
Waterstones £15.99
The Book Depository $27.78  (incl delivery)
TakeaLot.com (RSA) - R332  (shipping included)
Kalahari.com (RSA) R384 (free delivery on orders over R250?  At R50 more than Takealot is it really free?)

The ebooks will shortly also be available from:
Apple iBooks
AllRomanceeBooks.com
OmniLit.com
Powells.com
eBookMall.com
Diesel-eBooks.com
BooksOnBoard.com
eBooksAboutEverything.com


We are trying to get the book accepted by Exclusive Books, who have 48 stores in South Africa, and CUM Christian Book Stores who have over 40 stores nation wide.

The CSJ of SA are considering ordering a number of books so that they can make them available via their website.

Monday, October 03, 2011

YOUR CAMINO gets good reviews

YAY!!!  My book, "YOUR CAMINO on foot, bicycle or horseback in France and Spain" is getting good reviews on the forums and online book stores.

This review on Amazon.co.uk:

YOUR CAMINO - a Lightfoot Guide to Practical Preparation for a Pilgrimage (Paperback)
Preparing for a Camino and the thought of the challenge ahead can be a daunting task. This guide is akin to a reassuring, extremely informative and wise friend! Forget about trawling through every Camino book and website for the guidance you need - these experienced authors have done it all for you!
This is a vast accumulation of well researched knowledge all set out in a very logical format, offering sound advice in manageable chunks of text.

It covers the very basics (which you'll be surprised to find you may not have considered!) to the more in depth and complicated with handy highlighted tips and basic photographs where a visual reference is needed.
As if this isn't enough, further reading and useful websites for each topic dealt with are also detailed while the appendices elaborate on some important points such as post-Camino blues, Camino lingo and a training programme! Interesting historical detail and inspirational short stories from ex-pilgrims wet the appetite for adventure while the humorous cartoons remind you to keep a sense of humour during the serious job of planning.
I bought this book to satisfy my curiosity in the Camino de Santiago and my occasional ponderings on walking the route myself.
 I intended to dip in and out of it as I needed but ended up reading it from cover to cover! It tackles every practicality you could possibly think of, giving encouragement to every type of person, and is truly motivational, whether you have decided to walk a Camino yet or not. I wouldn't say this guide is only for first timers. It provides invaluable support for everyone.
Although the book focuses on routes to Santiago through France and Spain, it would serve equally
well as a guide to preparation for any other pilgrimage route.


And this one on a Camino Forum:
I've made time to read, and thoroughly enjoy, Sil's new book "YOUR CAMINO" and I can't imagine a more practically helpful publication for any pilgrim. Sil has covered virtually every eventuality and need of the pilgrimage, and her advice is rendered as though she were a kindly and wise mentor for anyone who ever planned to make the dream of the Camino become a personal, and permanent reality.