Hospital D'Orbigo - 9th June

Last night we invited Jurgen, a pilgrim from Hamburg who is also staying at the Hostal Central, to join our table at dinner. During the conversation he told us that he walked to La Virgin del Camino then later on got a bus back to Leon. He spent some time there and was going to wait for one of the afternoon buses but decided to take a taxi instead. (He was also overcharged but queried it and the taxi driver relented and charged him €20)
"But there are no buses during the day on a Sunday", I said, fresh and confident from my internet search of the ALSA website.  "There were many buses," he said, "many going both ways".
We had a lovely meal and found we'd met many of the same people on the way. We discussed them as though they were old mutual friends. There is also the "Camino grape-vine and word goes up and down about different pilgrims. I have met pilgrims who have said, "so, you are the lady who broke her arm. We heard about you last week. " Then someone says, "Pete has had to go ahead - he hurt his leg and had to rest a couple of days so now he is playing catch-up".
Back in the room I checked the ALSA website for the bus time table today and guess what? On Monday there are only evening buses from 20h30 onwards.  On Tuesday they start from 6am and run almost hourly.
I wanted to post another box to Santiago and found that the Correos was in a road parallel to the main road. I posted a copy of my book to Isa and a box of stuff to Santiago. Then I decided to wait at tbe bus stop across the road for Tuesday's 9h40 bus to Hospital.

Hallelujah - the bus was on time, not completo, I bought a ticket on the bus for €1.90 and 20 min later I was deposited on the main road outside Hospital D'Orbigo.  It took about 10 min to walk to the famous bridge and once on it, I saw the Albergue La Encina in a side road about halfway along the bridge. As I walked along the bridge I recognized Pete, striding along the cobblestone bridge. He wasn't staying here but just passing through.

It was too early to check in so I took a walk into the old part of the village, had a drink at the Hostal bar at the start of the bridge and met up with a few pilgrims I've seen regularly along the way.  Dan asked if he could take a photograph of me and I asked if I should smile or look sad? "We haven't seen you without a smile" said his wife, Esther. So I smiled and he took a photo of me and my broken arm.
I went back to La Encina and could check in.  This is the most spacious room I've had to date, large enough to fit 4 beds if needed.
Kathy arrived at 2pm. The lady who checked her in thought she was checking in with a man who had arrived with her at the same time. When I told Kathy she said, "Oh NO, gracias, no hombre!" I suggested to the woman that perhaps she had found Kathy a man and should offer them a matrimonial bed!
It had been a long walk for her, 30km according to her GPS watch.  Much too far for our amaWalkers pilgrims to walk. There are 2 routes to here,  one mostly alongside the road and the other (longer route) with less next-to-the-road walking. We might have to let them decide which they prefer to do.

After a rest we walked accross the long bridge to see if there was another way out for me in the moring. I'm going to have to roll the pink bag along the stony bridge and onto the main road (about 15min) to town to reach the bus stop. There are 4 storks nests on the church tower, all with large babies in them. We watched as a stork swooped over the river, probably looking for frogs.

We had drinks at the Hostal overlooking the bridge and we visited the two albergues in town (the parochial albergue still has the waterfall and forest mural on the wall in the courtyard that I first saw in 2002) and the San Miguel albergue where I met Marcelo the hospitalero from Brazil.
Cathy bought a few provisions at the tienda and we went back to Albergue Encina for a pilgrim menu.  I couldnt get the blind to come down in my room so had bright daylight until after 10pm. I should've kept the eye masks that Qatar airline gave us.

La Virgin del Camino - 8 June

7am: I checked the bus time table from Leon to La Virgin del Camino and there is only one on Sundays at 20h30. So, another taxi is on the cards for me today!
My bag is being transported each day by Jacotrans. They will drop it off at the Hotel Coruna in Astorga on Tuesday as I am getting the bus to Ferrol and Kathy to Villafranca.  In the middle of the night I suddenly thought, 'What if they don't get it there on time for my bus?' So, I've decided to take the bag with me on the bus from Hospital D'Orbigo to Astorga on Tuesday.  When I get to Leon,  I'll buy a small carry bag for Kathy to continue sending her few extras ahead until she gets to Sarria.
1pm: ☆Never ending Story☆
The taxi from Mansilla to Leon (about 18km) was €20. From Leon to Virgin del Camino (about 6km) was €25.  I nearly queried it but he stopped right outside where people were sitting at the pavement tables watching me get out of the taxi.
My never-ending bus story continues.
I was dropped off at the bus station.  I went straight to the ALSA window and was relieved to be the only one there. I had tree bus tickets to buy and wanted to get it right. I smiled at the guy behind the glass and showed him my short list of bus destinations and times.  He didnt smile back. He mumbled something and pointed upwards, like he was giving me the middle-finger but with his index finger. "Perdon?" I asked. He spoke more loudly and half standing gesticulated to a sign above his window. "Yonzyboosh" he said. I looked at him blankly. "YONZYBOOOOSH!" He shouted, as though I must be deaf. I stepped back and tried to read the sign. I felt as though I was in the twilight zone.  You have to buy the tickets 'on-the-bus' of course, that is what he was trying to say, 'Yon-zy-boosh' (On the bus).  "En el autobus?" I asked in my best Spanish accent. His head went up and down like those toy dogs we used to put in front of the back windscreen of our cars in the 1950's.
Just to piss him off I asked "what if the booos is completo?" "Nunca!" He muttered (never). Little does he know. He only works for ALSA. He hasn't seen desperate pilgrims crying because they couldn't get a seat on an ALSA bus that is full before it even reaches your village. So, from now on I cant buy a ticket at the station, I have to buy one yon-zy-boosh. I'll let you know how that works out!

Mansilla de las Mulas

So much for Acuweather's prediction of mostly clear skies. This was the view from my truck stop hotel window this morning at 7am. The rain woke me at 5am and the only thing moving outside was a joyful wagtail, tip-toeing through the puddles.
It was still raining when Kathy came to collect the bag at 7h15 so I gave her the Altus to take with her.
I phoned Jacotrans to ask for a taxi to Mansilla but he said he was 'completo ' so I asked the fellow at the cafeteria to phone for a taxi. He called a Roberto and told me he would be there in 10 min. I had to rush upstairs to get my things together and go back downstairs. Kathy was still there so we waited together for the taxi which would get me to Mansilla in 15 min, while it would take her another 4 or 5 hours in the rain.
Its a funny thing 'time'. One could hire a car in Pamplona and drive the 700km to Santiago in a day.  Pilgrims take a month or more. Both are covering the same distance but for the pilgrims time is stretched out from dawn to almost sun down every day.

Then there is our place in time. You are very concious of being a modern day pilgrim on this ancient pilgrimage road which goes back 1200 years in time.  Roman roads stretch back even further and the archaeological sites at Atapuerca remind us that humankind habitated this land over a million years ago.
For the pilgrim, time past is irrelevant.  They forget where they were just two days ago and don't know where they will in three days time. There is only today, moving like caracoles across the different landscapes of the Camino time is suspended. When they reach Santiago,  or the land of the Dark Star (as Walter Starkie described land's end at Finisterre) they will be bewildered to find that for them everything has changed but nothing is different. (The Road to Santiago )
Roberto dropped me at the Hostal San Martin and although it was very early, Ana, the owner let me in and I sat at the table in the bar/entrance and read emails etc. Most of the places have free WiFi (pronounced wee-fee in Spanish) so the first thing we do is connect to the WiFi and read and/or send messages home. 

The sun came out so I took a walk into the old town, still surrounded by some impressive walls, into the main plaza. I'd forgotten that it was Sabado - Saturday - and everything was closed. I saw a sign for the Estacion de AutoBuses which is open 24 hours a day.  I would be able to buy tickets for the next 4 days without having to go into Leon.  YAY!
I went back to the hostal and Ana showed me to my room. This is the smallest of all the rooms we have stayed in but at €25 a night, with a double bed and an en suite shower it was good value. Also they have a bar, large diningroom and outdoor terrace with a bar.
Kathy arrived and we decided to explore the 'town' -which took about 30 min. We visited 2 churches, both 18th c  not very impressive.  Then we walked to the 24 hour bus station to buy my tickets.  What was I thinking? There was a large waiting-room bar with a number of Saturday afternoon bar flies propping up the counter, but no ticket office. The barman told me you have to buy the ticket on the bus! "Are you sure? I ask him, rather suspiciously which makes him answer impatiently.  "What time is the bus to Leon tomorrow? I ask. He shows me the timetable on the wall - one bus only at 17h50 - which confirms my information. So, tomorrow I will rake a taxi to Leon where I hope to purchase tickets for the remaining 4 places on this reconnaissance walk.

El Burgo Ranero

I said goodbye to Kathy then walked down to the station and bought my ticket to El Burgo Ranero,  train leaving at 14hr37.  I am amazed at the exactitude of the timetables here. The bus is at 11:51. Not 11:50 or 11:55 , but 11:51.  The train will depart at 14h37 - not 14h35 but exactly 14h37.
I asked if I could also buy a ticket from El Burgo to Mansilla the next day.  "No hay". He said. The train doesn't go to Mansilla, I must take the bus. But sir, where do I get the bus ticket? "No se". I don't know.  (There's a hole in the bucket, dear Lisa, dear Lisa, there's a hole in the bucket,  dear Lisa,  a hole).
I went back to the hostal and tried finding a bus from El Burgo to Mansilla but kept coming up with nothing on the tablet search.  I asked if I could use the Internet in their reception.
Turns out that there is no bus on Saturday. We are back to the weekend story. No bus and no train. I will have to get a taxi tomorrow to Mansilla. I was planning on getting one of the almost hourly buses available to La Virgin on Sunday. HA! No way, Jose. There are hourly buses Lunes to Viernes, but none on Domingo (Sunday).  I will get a taxi to Leon bus station and, hopefully, will be able to buy tickets from there to La Virgin,  Hospital d'Orbigo and to Astorga.
I left a message on the ALSA Facebook page about the problems I'm having with getting bus tickets. Can't buy them on the bus,  or in the towns, or online if you have a foreign credit card. "Try booking on Movelia" they replied.
I went on the Movelia website. It seems that one can book with them, even if you have a foreign credit card,  and if you don't have a printer.  You take down the booking reference number.   I'd like to try that. I might book a one-way ticket just to see if it works.
At 13h30 I walked back into town and a peregrina from  Italy asked me where the bus stop was. She wanted to go to El Burgo Ranero.  Providence? 'Honey you have stopped just the right person' I think,  and tell her no bus without a ticket,  nowhere to buy the ticket,  best to take the train. "Donde estacion el tren? She asks. "Come with me," I say, and we make our way to the station.
Luciana is originally from Brazil but now lives and works in Venice, Italy.  We manage to converse in Spanish and we get on the train together.  El Burgo is an 11 minute ride. I think it will take Kathy over 4 hours. We arrive at 14h48. Its a dusty,  tired looking place and a small stream of pilgrims follow us to the town. How do I know where to go?  I dont, I just head for a church tower and soon pick up the yellow arrows.
I say goodbye to Luciana and she kisses my hand. Sweet peregrina. I turn left towards the large service station truck stop hotel, Castillo Burgo, where Kathy is waiting for me.
I shower, wash a few clothes and set up a makeshift washline near the open window then Kathy I go downstairs to the large cafeteria. I have a mixed salad (no tuna) and she has beef steak, eggs and chips. She is burning up energy walking +20km each day and I am burning out trying  to get from one town to the next.
At 7pm we are ready to retire to our smart, truck stop rooms.

Sahagun

I had a tin of fruit salad in the room and at 7.45am took the pink bag to the reception. I moved my stuff to the cafeteria so that they could clean my room.
About an hour later Julia joined me. We sat and had a drink and she told me a bit about her work as a teacher.
She wanted to get to Sahagun so that she could start walking to Calzadilla but she didn't have a bus ticket. "Would you consider sharing a taxi with me?" She asked. I had a bus ticket. The  bus was at 12.35pm. It was 10.45. The taxi would have us there by 11.15. I gave the bus ticket to a pilgrim sitting outside the albergue and shared a taxi (€13) to Sahagun.
The owner of Hostal Alfonso V1 confirmed that the only way to get a bus ticket for tomorrow was to book one online.  He suggested I get the train at 2.30pm.  There is nothing in El Burgo Ranero so I will get the train tomorrow. At least there's a train station where I can buy a ticket.
Kathy sent an sms to say that she was in her room. We had a drink and some cookies she had bought on her way in. She went off to update her blog and I had a half - bath in the sitting bath. I gave some washing to the hostal and had a rest before we both went out to explore the town.
This is all that is left of one of the most powerful Benedictine monasteries in Spain.

When we go to the plaza Mayor we found the Aussie family snd Pat, the NY policeman,  sitting in the plaza. We joined them and had bocadillos and cold drinks.
Kathy joined them to walk to the church on the hill where one could get a halff way sello. I found a small corner shop selling fruit, water, Aquarius and yoghurt for tomorrow.
Kathy back very chuffed as she had earned  half-way certificate, much like the new Compostela. It was almost 9pm and time for bed.

4 June - Trradillos los Templarios

Kathy left quite early as it was going to be a 26km day to Terradillos. I decided to buy some groceries to take to Rebekah so walked to the Spar and the big supermercado DIA. I vacated the room at 10 and sat in the foyer doing emails and the blog.
The bus was at 11.51 so at 11.30 I strolled down to the bus stop outside the cafe bar.  I sat with Grace from Texas and who should come along but Patty and Sharon from Portland. When you reconnect with people who you've met further back on the trail, you are like long lost relatives!  (Fr Jeffrey, if you read this post Patty sends her love).
A German pilgrim came out of the bar in a state. She was due to fly home from Leon and had been told the bus was fully booked. I went into the bar and asked to buy a ticket to Terradillos.  "No, es completo" answered the bar man. They did not sell tickets on the bus so all tickets had to be pre-booked. We had found the same thing in Italy but so far in Spain this had not been the case. I told Grace I would have to take a taxi again today and an Italian pilgrim with a sore leg asked if he could share the taxi to Terradillos.  I went back to the barman and bought a ticket for the bus from Terradillos

to Sahgun tomorrow.
So, at 12pm Alberto and I shared a taxi (€30) to Terradillos. When I checked in I recognised the woman at the desk and told her that I had stayed here in 2007. The albergue was new then and she hadn't seen pilgrims from South Africa. We gave her one of the wire Santiago crosses I'd had made by a wire worker outside the Post Office. She pointed to the noticeboard behind her and there was the little cross, still hanging there

after 7 years amongst other gifts from pilgrims. I told her about AmaWalkers and she took me on a tour of the place.
Kathy arrived at about 1.30 so I phoned Rebekah and arranged for her to pick us up after 2pm.
When Reb arrived I felt a bit star-struck! I had seen her name on the Forums since Santiagobis days and subsequentky had followed her blog since she and Paddy moved to Moratinos. She gas written books, numerous articles on the Camino and is considered an authority on the Camino.
In 2008 Reb compiled an online Hospitaleros training course which I did as a pilot training exercise.   It wasn't accepted by HOSVOL (Hospitaleros Voluntarios) but on the strength of that, I was accepted to serve in an albergue in 2009. When I returned to South Africa, I became a Hosvol trainer and many South African trained volunteers have served in albergues in Spain.
Reb took us to a restaurant in Moratinos where we confused the owner with Kathy being allergic to fish and me being a vegetarian and not drinking wine. I'm sure he felt sorry for Reb with her high maintenance friends.

After lunch we walked around the edge of the village to see the many bodegas - like little Hobbit houses in the hillside.
Reb told us that she had two South African ladies staying the night and we were thrilled to find Sharon and Lin there. We ended up sitting around the table chatting until almost 7pm.
Reb drove us back to the albergue stopping at the memorial tree she planted for Philip,  the "Methodist Pilgrim" from the forum who died in May last year.

3 June-Carrion de los Condes

Elisa has the only taxi in Fromista. The pilgrim trade is a big part of her business but it is seasonal and in the late autumn and winter she doesnt have many passengers.
She picked me up at 9am and we travelled along the Camino route to Carrion de los Condes,  passing streams of pilgrims on the asphalt path alongside the road. Kathy walked a detour section which she said was much nicer.
The Hostal la Corte is a family run, 16 room hostal with a

large, popular restaurant. It is opposite the church of Santa Maria (who else has so many churches named after them?). It was too early to check in so I visited the tourism kiosk and had a chat to Angel. There are many Angels in Spain, some are Jose Angel, Javier Angel or Luis Angel, but he is simply Angel.  He marked the supermarket on the map and pointed to where I woulg get the bus across the road tomorrow.
I walked through town on the Camino route until I saw the sign for the Monasterio San Zoilo. About a km past the monastery is where I left a gift for Pieter Panvenis in 2007, at the base of a tree on the Camino path. I'd also left a memorial for his Camino perro - Don Trigo Carrión de los Condes.  The memorial disappeared years ago but I wanted to see if the box I buried was still there.

I walked back to town and the room was ready. In 2002 I had stayed at the municipal albergue and in 2002 at the convent with the nuns. Staying in a smart hostal in a decirated room, double bed and an en suite bathroom with shampoo and bath gel sachets were what dreams were made of then!
Kathy arrived and I introduced her to Jose and Rosa. Her room was downstairs off the courtyard. We agreed to meet downstairs at 4.30pm.

We visited the church and followed the Camino signs out of town, looking for Don Trigo's memorial site. I recognized the tree right away and there was a remnant of a yellow arrow on the tree. I began to dig using a stick and soon started digging up pebbles, stones and chunks of plastic but no hidden box with a brass scallop shell, buried there 7 years ago.  We dug up plastic with packing tape on it but the gift was no longer there.  I would email Pieter in Holland to let him know.

We visited the monastery museum and then walked back to the hostal where we had a great vegetable platter in the crowded restaurant.
Tomorrow I will get the 11.51 bus to Terradillos.  Its a long walk for Kathy - 26km - so she might not get there till 2pm.

1 June - Castrojeriz

I had to get a taxi here as there are no buses from Hornillos.

 Tomorrow there is a bus but only at 6pm.  I don't fancy spending another long day here so will have to cough up and pay for another taxi to Fomista. Thereafter,  I will be able to take Alsa buses all the way to Astorga.
It was too early to check in so I strolled around this sleepy village, even more sleepy being a Sunday.  Even the few bored dogs I saw didn't lift their heads when I passed them.
The town is a waren of narrow,  stony alleys and steps wrapped around the base of the hill.  At the top is the ruin of an old castle. In 2007 Marion and I climbed to the top to see the castle and the stunning views.  But, I wasn't going to risk going up there on my own. If I tripped or fell I could die of hyperthermia before anyone found me!
I walked back to the Meson and my room was ready and my pink case waiting for me.

 In 2002 when I walked with Georgette and Clare, we stayed in an awful albergue in concrete cubby-holes with
thin vinyl mattresses. You couldn'nt sit up and we nearly froze to death. In 2004 Joy and I stayed in this Meson and in 2007 Marion, Annelise and i stayed in the San Esteban albergue then a few weeks later, after Finn joined us to walk from Sarria we hired a car and I drove us here from Oviedo.
I walked downstairs and saw Kathy checking in.  The sun was out and it was quite warm. We decided to have a mixed salad for lunch in the terrace area but it had been reserved for a first Communion celebration so we were seated inside the dining room.
After lunch I tried out the sitting bath but had to stand and shower. I was afraid that if I sat down I wouldn't be able to get up and would need rescuing!
I decided to take a walk to the shop which, according to their sign, would open at 4.30pm.   Kathy was also looking for it but only a bar was open. I bought some dates and an iced tea and we went back to our rooms.
There are two things pilgrims search for when arriving in a village or town - a place to sleep and the for food. I'm sure the bakeries, cheese makers, ham producers and breweries survive through the pilgrim trade.
We went in search of an open shop and found others doing the same.  The film producer of the documentary on the cellist - 'Walk to Fisterra' - was looking for peanut butter to feed his crew in the morning. Dane Johansen is playing here tonight.

On the way back we stopped and chatted to the couple from Belgium and outside the Meson we ran into the Aussie family and talked about Comrades (which was run today).
It doesn't get dark until about 10 pm so when you go to bed you have to close the shutters or roll down the blinds.

31 May - Hornillos del Camino

Even though we had bed covers and blankets it was cold when we woke this morning.  The temperature was about 4oC and there was a 30% chance of light rain. We took the pink case downstairs at 7.45 and I said goodbye to Kathy. At about 9am I left the hotel. The cold wind still got through my layers of jackets, scarf and chill cheater.
I knew that there was nothing in Hornillos so I decided to have a Cola Cao and then do a self- guided audio tour of the cathedral.  I first visited the cathedral in 2002 and the many gilt chapels - some decorated with gold brought back to Spain by the Conquistadors,  made me feel claustrophobic.  I haven't been back in it since. But, this morning I paid €6 to visit the cathedral again.

Afterwards I walked towards the bus station where the taxis park. The digital clock and temperature reading at the farmacia showed that it was only 10oC at 11.35

I took a taxi to Hornillos del Camino. I was able to hold a decent conversation with the driver, mainly because he spoke quite slowly. The Hostal Sol de Sol is a lovey place with 7 comfortable rooms, a living room, fully equipped kitchen and an attractive outdoor seating area at the back.  

 There seem to be at least 3 albergues in this tiny place and two Casa Rural hostales. Sol and Casa Abuelo.

I knocked on the door of the Hostal Sol and a young man opened it. He said the room would be ready in about 20 minutes so I sat on a bench outside chatting to pilgrims from Colarado.  

It was getting colder so I took a walk along the almost medieval street to the bar then turned back and saw Kathy arriving. We checked in, then went to the bar where I had potato tortilla for lunch and she had an apple, custard slice. A couple from Belgium joined us and once again I could converse with them in Afrikaans. 

There was a notice in the bar that a young musician- Dane Johansen - who was walking the Camino carrying his Cello,  would be playing in the church at 5pm.  We went back to the rooms to shower and rest until 4.30pm.

Every shower in every place is different and in Somerset County places I feel mechanically challenged by the workings of the showers. Last night the shower was like an upright jacuzzi with shwer jets coming at you from all angles. The one in Hostal Sol has an unusual tap. You have to push the head up to get water and then turn it keft for hot and right for cold water.  There is a seat, a mirror (who needs to see oneself so closely in a shower?) as well as a radio!

At 4.30pm we walked to the church and took our seats on the benches. There were notices outside that a documentary crew would be filming and by going inside we accepted that we might be filmed but would not be entitled to any compensation. 

The music was wonderful and for an hour we forgot about the cold and enjoyed Bach and a Spanish composition Santa Maria del Manzano.

We decided to eat what we had left in our rooms so my dinner was a not-so-healthy cheese roll, half a slice of Santiago tart and Rooibos tea. Tomorrow I'll have to take a taxi to Castrojeriz as there are no buses over the weekends. 

All good in Burgos

Hotel Entrearcos
The taxi collected me at 8am. It was the Caminofacil luggage transport and we stopped at many small places along the way picking up bags and packs.  It was a bit like travelling on the old milk train between Durban and Johannesburg in the 1950's.

The driver dropped me off at the emergency door of the hospital in Burgos.  

I saw a very nice young doctor from Peru who spoke fairly good English.  Had to have Xrays and then go back to him. He said I needed a full cast and I asked him not to make it too thick.

(I took this self ie in the bathroom!)
He told me that he would have to apply traction to the fingers and that he might hurt me but it wasnt too bad. I just thought of my son, Mark, and turned my head away!  He cut the old cast off and I was surprised at how purple and yellow the arm was almost to the elbow.

I had to lie on an examination bed and to apply traction,  he first rolled a 'sausage' bandage on the arm down to the elbow. Then he made three loops with thin bandages and looped them over my thumb, index and middle fingers. He tied the long ends of the bandages around his waist.

 He and a nurse tied my upper arm into a sling that was attached to the top of the bed. He then began to pull away and it felt like the fingers might detach from my hand! While it was tight he applied the plaster cast. It is quite flat underneath - not a big round cast.  When it was done I had to go for more Xrays to make sure that the bone was still in the same position.

I asked him if I could walk and he said only in 4 or 5 days,  when the cast had cured and was dry.  I told him I wouldnt walk until I meet my husband abd small group in Ferrol and he suggested I have another Xray there. I got a taxi to the hotel. 

Everyone has been very kind and helpful.
Kathy arrived later than expected after missing the turn to the alternate route alongside the river and walking the long, hard slog into the city. We decided to go on the Chuchu tourist train and spent 40 minutes seeing the sights that way.

 Then we walked back along the Camino route to the Renfe train ticket office where Kathy bought her ticket from Sarria to Madrid.
On the way back to the hotel we went to the bus station to get a timetable for my buses for the next few days.  Because it is the weekend,  there are no buses to Hornilos del Camino tomorrow or from there to Castrojeriz on Sunday.  I'll have to take taxis both days.Kathy went out to find dinner and I tried to negotiate the jacuzzi type shower without getting my new cast wet.
 It is cold in Burgos.  Night temperatures are down to 3 and 4o and daytime not higher than 14oC. 

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